




c^ 



d 



THE 



MARCH OF EMPIRE 



THROUGH three: DKCADES. 



EMBRACING 



Sketches of California History ; 



EARLY TIMES AND SCENES ; LIFE IN THE MINES ; TRAVELS BY 

LAND AND SEA BEFORE THE ERA OF RAILROADS ; THE 

EAST DURING THE YEARS OF THE CIVIL WAR; LIFE IN 

THE BORDER STATES; CROSSING THE PLAINS WITH 

OX Ti5AMS; CROSSING THE PLAINS ON THE 

TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILWAY; PROGRESS 

AND IMPROVEMENT OF THE GOLDEN 

STATE ; RESOURCES ; ETC., ETC. 



NIRS. rvIAtvLIE STARRORO. 



SAN FRANCISCO: 
GEO. SPAULDING & CO., GENERAL PRINTERS, 414 CLAY STREET. 
i8c4. 



iss^ 



Fife A 



Zilii 



1 



TO THOSE 

WHO WERE EVER MY WARM FRIENDS, ALIKE IN SUNSHINE 

AND IN SHADOW, 

THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY 

DEDICATED. 



PREFACE. 



In response to many requests of friends and acquaint- 
ances, I have copied from the tablets of memory a brief 
recital of adventures which occurred during thirty years 
of wanderings in the West, mingling it with scraps and 
sketches of history. The author feels a natural timidity 
in i)i'esenting her personal experiences to the public, but 
hopes it may prove of sufficient interest to warrant a pe- 
rusal, the object being to preserve, along with many other 
and worthier works, a remembrance of those old-time cus- 
toms, scenes, modes of traveling, etc , which belong essen- 
tially to the past, and which are fast disappearing in reality, 
as also from memory. 

To those who have participated in the stirring scenes of 
early days in California and the Western border, it is to be 
hoped this little volume will recall many similar adventures 
and pleasurable events ; and to the general reader and the 
young to whom these accounts are but as scraps of remote 
history and bygone times, it is my earnest hope that this 
brief recital will prove a faithful mirror, which will reflect 
the peculiar scenes and adventures connected with the dawn 
of civilization in the West 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

Looking back over tlie long, eventful trail of 
nearly thirty years, how distinctly one recalls 
to memory the fabulous stories of gold discov- 
ered on the Pacific Coast and the wild excite- 
ment they created; the smile of derision with 
which they were received by some, but with 
belief and faith by the many. And how vividly 
returns to mind the Adsions of long trains of 
emigrant wagons, that, winding slowly west- 
ward, moved out of the border cities, laden 
with their rich freight of human beings — men, 
Y/omen and tender children — bound for the coun- 
try of their aspirations, California-— the land to 
which so many longing eyes were hopefully 
cast, the Mecca to which thousands of pilgrims 
bent their daring and adventurous steps, and 
the shrine of many a splendid dream and gilded 
hope ! 

How well those ambitious dreams and gilded 
hopes were realized, the years have given us 
answer. Out of the then indiscernible and 
hidden future, time has enrolled chapter upon 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 



chapter of our young State's dazzling history; 
a history, that is replete with the daring deeds, 
heroic acts, privations and adventures of her 
early pioneers. The civilization and cultivation 
of the golden Occident is due to the brain, 
muscle and sterling principles of her early 
pioneers. To them the country was an almost 
unbroken wilderness, over whose rich but un- 
cultivated valleys roamed herds of cattle and 
horses, and peopled by a rude, barbaric race. 
Unskilled and ignorant, and unambitious, they 
dreamed away an idle and listless existence — 
unenviable, indeed, save for its luxurious con- 
tent. 

But the discovery of gold, in 1848, oj)ened 
up a new era on the Pacific slope, and immi- 
gration poured in by sea and land. It is the 
old story of how thousands left their cheerful 
firesides ; left friends, kindred, wives, little 
ones, and all that centres in that sweet word 
home, and with the new, unexplored gold fields 
of California in view, they braved the terrors 
of the sea, the long voyage around the "Horn" 
and the dread malaria of the tropics ; or, 
"crossing the plains," they braved "dangers 
seen and unseen ' ' in the wild and trackless wil- 
derness, over swollen rivers and across snowy 
mountains. Ever in danger of an attack from 
the hordes of merciless savages that lined their 
path, they toiled onward, often without guide, 
and nothing save the compass and their trust 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIEE. 9 

in God to direct tliem to the land of their 
hopes. Alas ! how many " faltered by the way- 
side," and, weary, found a rest in an unknown 
grave by the flowing river, in the dim sands of 
the desert, or under the pines on the mountain's 
brow. Perhaps it is in consequence of the 
dangers and hardships endured, and the suc- 
cess which attended their efforts, that a sort of 
lofty pride mantles the brow of the gray-haired 
pioneer as he recounts in thrilling tones the 
adventures which befel his party when he 
"crossed the plains" in the Spring or Sum- 
mer of '49. The lustre of that pride which 
glows with a just fervor in the heart of the 
pioneer of the forties, is felt, though perhaps 
more dimly, in the breast of the immigrant of 
the fifties. It is, therefore, with a feeling of 
pleasure that I review a part of that early his- 
tory; that I look back over a portion of the 
long, eventful trail — a portion, too, of the trail 
that is fast becoming obliterated by new inno- 
vations. " Crossing the plains" w ith ox teams, 
which journey required a period of nearly six 
months, and ' ' rounding the Horn' ' in a sailing 
vessel, are remembered now as events that be- 
long essentially to the past. They have passed 
into history along with the Digger Indian, the 
Spanish vaquero and the old adobe building, 
and things and scenes associated with and a 
part of the introductory pages of our still 
young, but rapidly developed State. 



10 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

No more the long, unbroken trains 
Of ox teams on the desert sands, 

Bear onward, in the creaking wains. 
The emigrant in weary bands. 

The years that passed! the years that passed! 

Bear witness to unwritten tales 
And histories; for along the vast 

Dim trackless sands and winding vales. 
Once stirred, in Life's quick throbbing beat, 
The tramp of many thousand feet. 

They live with us, those years that made 
Our young athletic State unfold 

Her hidden powers of wealth, and laid 
Her history in an age of gold. 

And we, a part of that great throng. 

Who bravely stemmed the threat' ning waves — 

Or trackless waste, that all along 
Was thickly marked with new made graves; — 

Oh! we cannot forget the old 
Long journeys to the "Land of Gold." 

To-day the shining track of steel 

Stretches from East-land to the West. 

We sit in gliding car and feel 
The idle luxury of rest — 

And templed cities, vast and fair, 
Pass by like phantoms on the air. 

But O! our hearts cannot forget 

The past — that is a part of us: 
Those long remembered times, which yet 

Are sacred as the half -buried dust 
Of those, who fainting found a rest 

In the wild deserts of the West. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE DEPARTURE — EVENINGS ON SHIP-BOARD — SALT WATER 
BATH — GREEN ISLAND OF CUBA — CENTRAL AMERICA — 
THE NATIVE WOxMEN — CASTILIAN LADIES/ 

In a fair city of the west, one lovely morning 
in October in 1854, there was gathered at the 
de]3ot a group of friends. It was the occasion 
of my departure for California in companj^ with 
my husband, on the eastward bound train for 
New York. Looking backward over the dim 
trail, grass-grown and half obscured by the 
crowding events and wonderful changes since 
that time, I find myself wondering if indeed I 
am the same being, the same, who almost thirty 
years ago, amid a vast throng of fellow-voy- 
agers, was outward bound for the new country 
of golden dreams. 

Time passes quickly enougli ; but looking back 
through all these years, and briefly summing up 
the changes, the vast achievements of science, 
the progress and improvements in the history 
of nations, the wonderful inventions and re- 
markable discoveries, and the grand opening up 
of the western half of our continent, it would 
seem that ages and ages had written its intelli- 
gible hieroglyphics on the world's history. So 
rapidly have these events succeeded each other, 



12 • THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

tlicit in going back in retrospection over the old 
familiar landmarks, I brush aside the foliage, 
and remove the dense undergrowth as I attempt 
to reveal some of the scenes and events of those 
long past years. 

That bright October morning ! There was that 
peculiar perfume in the atmosphere suggestive 
of early frosts. There was that dreamy haze 
which gives to the sunshine a softer tint, the 
beautiful haze of Indian summer. The hills 
were crow^ned with sumach, wild grape vines, 
etc., and were arrayed in all the crimson glory 
of early autumn. And as our train sped swiftly 
on, we drank in the sweet breezes that came 
from the low woodlands — saw the fields of rust- 
ling corn bending underneath their freight of 
tawny grain, the lark, soaring in mid air, car- 
rolled to us a glad goodby, and farm houses, 
cities and villages passed in rapid succession. 
Having reached New York, the grand Ameri- 
can metropolis, with its endless, busy streets, 
filled with a surging mass of human beings — 
and after spending a few days in sight-seeing, 
we purchased tickets for the P. M. S. S. Co. 
line, and were soon on board the staunch steam- 
er North Star, running between New York and 
Aspinwall. The black cloud-like vaj)or issuing 
from the smoke-stack, tells us that she will ere 
long be on her voyage; and soon there is the 
hurry and commotion of departure, the creak- 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. * 13. 

ing of machinery, groaning of the engines, rat- 
tling of cordage, and amid it all the hoarse com- 
mands of officers. With the rapid farewell of 
friends, the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, 
we are out upon the bay and steaming down the 
Sound, and feel that we have launched our bark 
on the broad ocean, have sundered old ties, 
parted from the country of our birth, from 
friends and old associates and familiar scenes — 
and with wdiat thronging emotions did I stand 
and watch the dim receding strand, and saw 
in the distance through the blue vapor of that 
bright October morning, the forms I loved, 
and waving hands. 

There is always something indescribably sad 
in parting from those we love; but a parting- 
like this ! — to see the blue weaves close over the 
shining track of the vessel, to watch the fast- 
fading shore and see around us the great world 
of waters, is doubly solemn. We had on board 
nine hundred passengers, but amid the hurry 
and excitement of the first few hours out at sea 
I stood alone, feeling that sinking of the heart 
as I watched the shore of my native land recede 
from sight. Going on deck the next morning, 
I strained my eager vision to the right, but 
ihere was not the faintest shadow of the land, 
not the most cloud-like semblance visible on 
the far horizon. Around us, on either hand, 
rolled the blue, restless waves of the Atlantic. 



14 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

It was then that we realized that we were in- 
deed launched on the vast world of waters. 
How limitless it appeared, as it rolled, billow 
upon billow, till lost in the far distance it van- 
ished on the rim of the clear horizon. At such 
a time, and such a place, how forcibly are we 
reminded of our own feebleness and our utter 
dependence on the Supreme Being — He who 
spake worlds into existence, and guides the 
ship through the trackless ocean. At such a 
time, in such a place, we are prone ' * To own 
the littleness of man; the mightiness of God." 
There is inherent in the soul of every human 
being a worshipful tendency, a tendency to own 
and acknowledge the grandeur and goodness of 
the Maker of the Universe; but soiled by con- 
tact with the world and long wandering from 
the fold of the Good Shepherd, like wayward 
children, we often forget His loving presence, 
and worship new idols; but brought face to 
face with His grandest creations \\ e cannot but 
acknowledge and bow in adoration before the 
great First Cause . What though we are led away 
by " vain philosophies " and false speculations, 
beyond and over it all we know that God reigns. 
It was such a thought, unuttered but felt, that 
stirred my soul as I stocd gazing out on the 
grandeur, the fearful sublimity of the ocean, 
and thought of the perils and hardships ''of 
those who go down to the sea in ships." My 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 15 

spirits, young, light and elastic, soon became 
accustomed to the novelty and grandeur of the 
scene that daily met my view. It was my de- 
light to take my seat at the prow of the vessel, 
and watch with tireless pleasure the ship, as it 
rose and fell with the motion of the waves, now 
up above the foaming waters while the stern 
was deep in the trou<>h of the sea. and then re- 
versed, I was let down and down until my out- 
stretched hand could almost reach the boiling 
billows. Few ladies attempted this feat, and 
often I was warned by the sailors and officers 
that if I remained there I would get seasick, 
but it was my good fortune never to be troubled 
with that disagreeable sensation. As days 
passed we formed some pleasant acquaintances, 
it being a recognized endeavor to try to make 
the time pass as pleasantly as possible; so life 
on shipboard proved, though rather irksome, 
to be one long holiday, in which one is released 
from the set rules and toils and cares of exist- 
ence. On such a voyage warm friendships are 
often formed that last through the eventful 
mazes of a lifetime, but in this one instance it 
is somewhat singular that of all that vast com- 
pany with whom we journeyed, with whom we 
laughed and sang and parted on the golden 
shore, I have since met but one. Doubtless 
they, like ourselves, have wandered in devious 
paths, have floated with the ever-restless tide 



16 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

of the times, have followed the phantom, till, 
weary of the search, are content at last to find 
a home in some sequestered vale or mountain 
slope. 

Evenings on shijDboard were particularly de- 
lightful. Gathered on the deck in little groups, 
we whiled the long hours away in pleasant con- 
versation, rehearsing stories and singing songs, 
the music floating out and blending with the 
murmur of the waves. At other times the blue 
Atlantic — often variable and fretful — rolled its 
great waves and rocked our strong ship as a 
cradle. It was on such occasions that most of 
the passengers sought their berths, and, assum- 
ing a reclining position, endeavor to keep 
down their rising — breakfast, dinner or sup- 
per. There was then a noticeable falling off at 
table; a sort of let-me-alone-if-you-please ex- 
pression on the woeful faces of the afflicted 
ones. Not infrequently some tlmughtless pas- 
senger neglected to close the port-hole of his 
state-room, and the sea, suddenly rising, 
drenched him from head to foot. I was on one 
occasion the thoughtless victim of a salt water 
bath. 

While reclining one day in my berth, rocked 
by the motion of the vessel, and for want of 
better amusement, watching the changing posi- 
tion of everything movable — hats tumbling from 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 17 

their racks, carpet sacks and baskets sliding 
and careening across the floor, and boxes, bot- 
tles, etc., slipping, thumping and rolling hither 
and thither, there was a momentary darkening 
of my window, and as I turned to look, a deluge 
of the "blue and boundless" drenched me from 
head to foot. I uttered a scream , and to add to 
my "ten or fifteen different emotions," I was 
greeted by a hearty peal of laughter. As soon as 
I could clear my vision of the " briny deep," I 
recognized my next-door neighbor, who was 
hanging on to my door and laughing heartily at 
my moist, unpleasant appearance. It was what 
the sailors called a ''heavy sea," and I thought 
so, too; but laughing is catching, and as the sea 
continued rough, I had not many days to wait 
to repay my neighbor in her "own coin." One 
day while standing at her door talking, she and 
her little girl being in her berth, there was a 
sudden lurch of the vessel, a grating sound, 
and then — whizz! swish! down came an abun- 
dant shower of old Neptune, completely cover- 
ing for £. moment mother and child. I could 
have laughed revcngeftdhj, only the poor, little 
babe presented such a pitiable picture as it 
clung to the wet garments of its mother. 

Days passed, and one fine morning we saw dim- 
ly on our left, rising proudly out of the sea, the 
green island of Cuba. It was crowned with ver- 



18 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

dure, a very queen of the ocean; the waters were 
cahn, rippling along its low, bright shore. 

0, isles that sliine! O, isles that shiue! 

Across the blue Carribean sea, 
I seem to see their faint sea-line 

Whose silver strand my spirit binds 
By far-off dreams of memory. 

But steaming past, we are soon out of sight 
of the beautiful vision, and soon after we be- 
held the cloud-like outlines of a coast, and 
drifting outward and floating past us were 
stray planks, bark, seaweed and the floating de- 
bris of the shore, all harbingers of joy to the 
weary voyager. Soon the shore became less 
phantom-like and more distinct, and we snifted 
the sweet land breeze, and felt with rapture 
that we were nearing the far-stretching shores 
of Central America. 

Ere long our noble ship lay moored at the 
long wharf of Aspinwall, and we gathered up, 
amid the general hurry and commotion, our 
traveling equipments, and as we ste23ped on the 
unfamiliar shore felt, indeed, that our feet 
pressed foreign soil. There to our right stood 
a group of palm trees, drooping and picturesque, 
and lo! " beneath the palm trees' leafy shade,'' 
there lounged and idled a group of natives. In 
the peculiar costume of the bronzed sons of the 
tropics, they lazily watched the disembarking 
of the passengers. If we had imagined that 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 19 

the town itself would present a foreign appear- 
ance, that the houses would be built in the 
hacienda, adobe veranda style, we were mis- 
taken. The long rows of hastily erected wooden 
buildings, generally one story high, were essen- 
tially modern and American, at least the busi- 
ness portion. But the inhabitants were all 
shades of color, the natives ranging from the 
light brown to the swarthy copper color, and 
merging into the sleek jet-black Jamaica negro, 
black as imagination can paint him; for him I 
entertained a sort of respect, as it was evident 
he was pure blood, but for the mixed element 
one could scarcely imagine his nationality, be- 
ing to all appearances a little of everything 
colored. 

The native women, with immense woven bas- 
kets poised on their heads, filled with oranges, 
pineapples, bananas, cocoanuts, j)lan tains, and 
other tropical frtiits, with Mexican cakes, meat, 
etc., thronged the streets vending their wares. 
In striking contrast to them were the Castilian 
ladies of the upper classes, who might be seen. 
on -balconies and verandahs, reclining in easy 
chairs and hammocks, enjoying a ^' dolce far 
niente'' sort of existence. Lithe and graceful 
of figure, and fair of face, their long black curls 
swept over their shoulders in lustrous negli- 
gence, while with unceasing motion they swayed 
their fans. Did you ever observe Avith what 



20 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

fascinating grace of motion the Spanish beauty 
handles her fan ? A languid undulating grace 
of motion that is at once the envy and despair 
of the Northern belle, and that is entirely in 
harmony with the indolent luxurious character- 
istics of the climate — the rich, warm, ease-lov- 
ing tropics. 



CHAPTKR III. 

A RIDK ON MULE-BACK — THE MOUNTING COMMENCED — SCENES 
AND INCIDENTS — CROSSING THE ISTHMUS. 

At the time of which I write, the Central 
American railroad across the Isthmus had* not 
been completed, and rumors of a ride on mule- 
back to complete the journey had reached our 
ears. Novel pictures of this portion of the jour- 
ney were portrayed in glowing colors — of steep 
and rocky defiles in the mountains; of dark, 
swift rivers to be crossed; deep, gloomy marshes 
to be forded — and all on muleback. The bare 
recital was enough to make the stoutest fem- 
inine heart quail with apprehension. 

Shortly before train time, my husband went 
to a store and purchased for me a pair of calf- 
skin boots; — boys' boots. It was generally un- 
derstood that thi-re was going to be '"fun 
ahead ' ' — maybe trouble — and we deemed it 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 21 

best to be ready for any emergency. Those 
wlio had crossed the route before were well 
aware that it was advisable to be *' booted" if 
not spurred for the occasion. 

At six o' clock in " the morning the warning 
whistle of the train sounded, and amid the rush, 
tumult and excitement, nine hundred passen- 
gers — "more or less," as the lawyers say — 
armed to the teeth with knapsack, overcoats, 
umbrellas, babies, poodles, guns, bird-cages — 
everything portable — went flying to the cars, 
bearing down upon the train like "an army 
with banners." 

There was the Frenchwoman, with her poodle; 
the tall, angular hunter, with his gun; the old 
maid, with her bird-cage; the Dutch Avoman, 
with her four children, and her pair of twins in 
her arms; and there was — yes, there was, with- 
out doubt — the little woman with the calfskin 
boots, and when the engine shrieked, the bell 
rang and the train moved out from the foreign 
American-built city of the tropics, there was a 
general smoothing down of rufiled plumages, 
and with faces aglow with perspiration and ex- 
citement, we prepared to enjoy a flying glimpse 
of the scenery, etc. We cross bridges and span 
broad rivers and dark marshes, and rumble 
through deep gloomy forests, and faintly catch 
glimpses of thick trailing vines, heavy jungles 
and beautiful trees. Near noon we arrive at 



22 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

the terminus of tlie railroad — a small collection 
of slianties. bamboo lints, etc. A short time is 
allowed for dinner and to make preparations 
for the mule ride, a distance of twelve miles yet 
intervening .between the terminus of the rail- 
road and Panama, 

A few restaurants, mere temporary affairs, 
are kept here by the natives — no very elaborate 
bill of fare. We enter one and call for dinner. 
We are motioned to a dark greasy-looking ta- 
ble, innocent of cloth, and a tall, very yellow- 
tinted Spanish woman, with long black curls, 
silently fries some ham and eggs, which, with 
some black coffee supplemented by a plate of 
Mexican cakes, comprises the entire bill of fare, 
one dollar per meal. Strengthened and invig- 
orated, we feel ready for the twelve-mile ride. 
If we are to believe as truth the stories which 
have reached us of the dangers and hard- 
ships, and in some cases, terrible adventures 
which have befallen many on this mule trail, we 
may well be pardoned for being apprehensive. 
What terrors and dangers may not lurk in the 
depths of yon dark forest, \\ here the trail en- 
ters clear and distinct, but is soon swallowed 
up in the dense foliage and thick jungle ! Close 
at hand is a large corral, into which has been 
driven an immense drove of mules. The pas- 
sengers are now allowed to go and select their 
animals. Though the mule-ride is included in 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 



23 



our through ticket, those who have crossed the 
Isthmus before are aware that by giving the 
natives in cliarge a few clolhirs extra he can se- 
lect his mule from the band In this way it 
was my good fortune to get for my riding ani- 
mal a line large gray mule— ''yes," says a lady 
at my elbow, " the very same one I rode over, 
just three months before.'' A short time pre- 
vious to this, there had been a terrible massa- 
cre of Americans as they crossed the Isthmus, 
and according to the custom of the times and 
also apprehensive of trouble, most of the pas- 
sengers were well armed. For this reason it 
w^as deemed advisable to start on the trail all 
together. The mules all being selected, the 
mounting commenced. 

There was the big, fat woman to be provided 
with a mule, and the "heavy city father,'" of 
aldermanic proportions, and it was a singular 
fact that, as a rule, these big, fat people invari- 
ably had the misfortune, and I may say morti- 
fication, of getting the small, lean, jack-rabbit 
mule. It is a noticeable fact, that in almost 
every instance these immense people never get 
things in proportion to their size. With w^hat 
anxiety and misgivings did they view tJie situa- 
tion ! And how carefully did they mount and 
deposit their ponderous weight on the backs of 
the trembling, patient brutes ! 

' ' Oh, I know I shall never get t here alive ! ' ' 



24 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

said a bulky lady, as slie towered over lier tliin 
little donkey, There also were ladies who had 
never been on horseback in their lives, and to 
whom the sight of a mule — a " horrid mule " — 
was enough to drive them mad. That they had 
to mount the horrid creatures, and be jostled 
and shaken — perhaps shaken off, was an idea 
too preposterous to be entertained. To add to 
it all, in "those good old times" we had no 
side-saddles — not on the mule trail. The style 
of riding advised by our male escorts was the 
style in vogue long before the invention of side- 
saddles, and much as we disliked to adopt the 
mas/suline mode of riding, we found before we 
had proceeded far both the wisdom and safety 
of it. Partly through timidity and partly 
through humiliation, several of the ladies de- 
murred, and then refused to ride at all; some 
were crying as though their hearts would break, 
others were angrily scolding, and it required 
some time before they could be convinced that 
they must ride, since it was impossible to walk. 
Such a scene ! Nine hundred passengers mount- 
ing nine hundred mules, with their various and 
multifarious equipments, belongings and en- 
cumbrances, the average being a roll of blan- 
kets strapped on behind, two carpet-sacks on 
the pummel of the saddle, and a large overcoat, 
shawl, bird cage, basket, umbrella, etc., which 
was carried in front. One may well imagine 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIEE. 25 

that under this nondescript lo id the little mule 
was lost to sight — not entirely — his ears, like 
Banquo's ghost, "Avould not down," but, true 
to nature, pointed with unerring fidelity to 
some imaginary degree in the zenith, assuring 
the traveler that he was a living reality. 
Mounted upon the hurricane deck of my noble 
gray, I sat an unobserved spectator, having 
accepted the inevitable with as good grace as 
I could command. 

At last all being ready, we. took up our line 
of march — "by twos and threes and single." 
Soon after entering the trail, it became neces- 
sary to go single file. Our little party, consist- 
ing of four or ^\e ladies and eight or ten gentle- 
men, expressed a determination to try to keep to- 
gether — a feat which might have been perform- 
ed had it not been for the long trains of pack 
mules laden with freight, merchandise, bag- 
gage, etc., in charge of the dusky natives. 
Wherever an opportunity offered, the natives 
drove their pack trains ahead, and in among 
the passenger train, often separating friends 
and acquaintances. On one occasion a swarthy 
native in charge of a number of pack mules, in 
endeavoring to get ahead of me, drove them 
so closely against my mule as to nearly knock 
me off. Quick as thought, a voice behind me 
rang out, " What are you doing, you black ras- 
cal?" "Go to h — 11," defiantly shouted back 
2 



26 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

the native. Immediately there was the click of 
a revolver, and turning I saw the gentleman, a 
fellow-passenger, with weapon drawn, was 
ready to fire. ''Don't shoot, Thornton," said 
some one in front of me, "keep cool, don't 
slioot." The cap snapped, and the native hav- 
ing gone on, Thornton put up his revolver, 
when the gentleman in front proceeded to ex- 
plain to the excitable Thornton the dangers of 
a serious affray with the natives on their own 
soil— "for," said he, "if you should happen to 
kill one of these black rascals, you would be 
tried by the Spanish authorities, and the prob- 
able result would -be instant death, or at least 
languishing for years in a Spanish dungeon. 
The natives were bold and insolent, and con- 
stantly endeavoring to get their pack mules 
ahead of the passengers. They fully compre- 
hended the advantages they possessed in being 
on their own soil, surrounded by their own 
countrymen, and did not fail to heap insults 
and indignities on defenseless Americans Adien- 
ever they could get them in their power. 

Although this novel and romantic part of the 
journey was beset with perils, inconveniences 
and annoyances, there were many things new 
and interesting to the lover of nature, and many 
incidents mirth-provoking and ludicrous. For 
a long distance the route lay through the heart 
of a deep dark jungle, so dense arnd thick that 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 27 

tlie sunshine scarcely ever penetrated it at mid- 
day. There were strange and beautiful trees, 
and clinging vines whose heavy weight hung 
doAvn ill a wealth of fruit and foliage. Far off 
the monkeys skipped and chattered from limb 
to limb of the tall trees; gay plumaged birds 
flitted in and out of the sombre woods, and one 
could imagine the reptiles and wild animals 
that doubtless infested the depths of the forest. 
When at length the character of the route 
changed, we ascended into a rocky and mount- 
ainous region, where for a long distance the 
trail led through a narrow defile in the mount- 
ains, affording only room enough for one ani- 
mal to proceed, single file. 

On each side a wall of rock rose perpendicu- 
larl}^ many feet, as though a pass had been 
hewn through the solid rock ; through this nar- 
row defile, passengers and baggage trains 
slowly wended their way. The pack mules, 
loaded with boxes of merchandise, trunks, etc., 
not infrequently became wedged in in some 
uncommonly narrow place. This occasioned a 
halt of the whole party, and a jamming and 
squeezing until the mule could be liber- 
ated, which often was not accomplished until a 
native went around on top, threw ropes down 
which were fastened to the animal's load, and 
drew it up, thus freeing it. While riding along 
through this narrow defile, I looked ahead, and 



28 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

to my astonisliment saw tlie passengers disap- 
pear as if they had suddenly sunk into the 
bosom of the earth, but on looking again I saw 
them reappear in the distance. My husband, 
who was a short distance in advance of me, 
turned, and givyig me a look of stern command 
not unmingied with fear and desperation, for- 
bade my further progress. "Go back, go 
back," said he, "don't come here;" just then 
he disappeared, and leaning forward I caught a 
glimpse of him at the bottom of what appeared 
to be a terrible precipice. I heard the heavy 
thud as the mule struck the ground, saw the 
carpet sacks shaken up, heard the jingling of 
the knives and forks in the lunch basket which 
he carried, and though peril and danger ap-< 
peared imminent I could not repress a smile at 
the ridiculous picture presented — an indiscrimi- 
nate mixture of mule, rider, carpet sacks, roll 
of blankets, lunch basket, etc.; but with an 
effort only equal to the emergency, the rider 
quickly adjusted himself and his belongings, 
and the mule, grave and solemn, proceeded on 
his way as though nothing had happened. If it 
had been instant deatli before me I could not 
have stopped, neither could I have turned 
around in the narrow pass; there was nothing 
for it but to cling on with all the strength I 
possessed. As we neared the descent, I 
noticed the mule pause for a brief second, and 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 29 



to my astonishment, lie carefully placed his 
feet together in a little niche worn in the rocks 
and giving a spring like a dog, we were down 
altogether and safe. It gave us a terrible 
shaking up though, and in speaking of it after- 
wards, the tall, angular fellow from the backs- 
woods remarked : ' ' Well, sir, them thar mules 
does beat all natur fur bein' shore-footed; dang 
if they don't !" We concurred. How the fat 
people on the thin little donkeys, and the timid 
ladies stood the fearful leap, I leave it for the 
reader to imagine ; for me that terror was past, 
and I v>^as looking out for what was ahead. 
Being possessed of the rich heritage of youth, 
high health, courage and indomitable spirits, 
I thought little of the inconveniences, annoy- 
ances and even dangers to which Ave were ex- 
posed. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THROUGH A TROPICAL SWAMP — THE STUBBORN MULE — SEPA- 
RATED FROM FRIENDS — THE OLD RUINED FORT. 

With the fearful leap we emerged from the 
narrow defile and entered a strip of low marshy 
•land, which appeared to be a swamp, moist and 
muddy, the mud increasing until a perfect 
slush it reached half leg deep to the mules. 
Through this the long line of passenger and 



30 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

baggage trains slowly splaslied. To add to the 
gloomy prospect, tlie rain — one never knows 
when to expect rain in that country — began to 
descend in a gentle mist. It was as if to re- 
mind lis that a thing is "never so bad but it 
may be worse." Many a groan and impreca- 
tion, "not loud, but deep," escaped the lips of 
the j I ded passengers. I was provided Avith a 
good wrap, and looking at my stout boots, I 
took courage. It proved, however, to be only 
a slight mist, and the sun was soon pouring 
down its scorching rays with all the intensity 
of that tropical climate. It came down fearfully 
hot as we slowly dragged, single file, through 
the slush of the swamp. 

Presently an incident, interesting — nay, ludi- 
crous — attracts the attention. Just in front of 
me is a very tall, harmless-looking fellow, 
mounted on a diminutive donkey. Beyond, in 
the neighboring forest, the monkeys kept up 
an incessant chattering, leaping from limb to 
limb of the strange trees. So engrossed had 
the tall man become with their exciting gam- 
bols that he did not notice the limb of a fallen 
tree I hat almost crossed his path. Soon his 
foot caught against the limb in such a manner 
that he could not extricate it without stopping. 
"Whoa!" said he, '' Whoa, you dum fool! I 
say, whoa!" But the animal kept on, and — 
splash! thud! He had measured his length in 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 31 

the mire. He arose, with many a dire invective, 
the maddest and the muddiest, if not the wisest 
man I ever saw. A native stopped the mule 
long enough for him to remount. Such a sight! 
Mud from head to foot. One learned before 
getting to his journey's end that there is no 
use trying to stop a mule. When once his head 
is turned in a certain direction with a train, it 
is simplv impossible for a stranger to stop or 
turn him from the old beaten track. With a 
stolid and persistent stubbornness, he turns 
neither to the right nor to the left, but keeps 
straight ahead, and sahrs no English; but his 
quick and generous ear is instantly obedient to 
the native's "Amoola! Hurra!" which, uttered 
with their peculiar intonation, seemed to be 
good mule language, and all that the exigencies 
of the case required. By degrees, and taking- 
no note of our wanderings, we emerged into a 
broad and open thoroughfare, the macadamized 
road that leads some distance out from the old 
city of Panama Like the old cathedrals and 
ruined forts, it appears to be a lingering land- 
mark of an ancient civilization. Since leaving 
the narrow defile the natives had driven their 
pack trains ahead witli greater energy, and on 
entering the road I found myself, with a small 
party of friends, separated by long trains of 
pack mules and their drivers from the main 
body of the p ssengers. As "coming events 



32 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

cast their shadows before, " we knew by the scat- 
tering bamboo huts, which are occupied by the 
lowest and most depraved class of these people, 
that we would soon be in the environs of the 
city of Panama. Suddenly there was a stam- 
peding of animals — exclamations in English, 
cursings in broken English and Spanish — and 
looking around, what was my horror to see that 
a large drove of pack mules, with their dusky 
drivers, had come in between me and my com- 
pany, completely separating me from my friends, 
and in the din and generr\l confusion I was be- 
ing rapidly driven on with the pack train. While 
endeavoring vainly to make my companions an- 
swer my shouts, my attention was turned to my 
animal. There had appeared suddenly at my 
bridle bit, without noise and without warning, 
as if from the very center of the earth, a being 
who, for aught I knew, might be a denizen of 
the lower regions. Low-browed and sinister 
looking, his dark face had that hideous express- 
ion that one is apt to associate in imagination 
with the smell of sulphur and brimstone. He 
looked defiantly in my face, while with his right 
hand he kept a firm hold on my bridle bit. I 
was alone, and already out of sight of my 
friends ! With a frantic effort I palled up my 
animal, and commanded him, with flashing eyes, 
to ''Let go of my bridle." He looked warily 
up and down the road, but still going on. Before 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 33 

and behind, for miles, it seemed, there was 
nothing to be seen but an endless train of 
pack mules and their dusky drivers. Still 
frantically pulling on my bridle, I saw 
that, with all my efforts, he was by de- 
grees taking me from the pack train and 
from the main road, and entering a dim path 
that led down behind a deserted bamboo hut — 
and from there — where? With the energy of 
desperation, I made an effort to stop my ani- 
mal, and shouted, "Let go of my bridle," and 
at the same time leaning forward, and aiming a 
blow across his bare shoulders with my riding 
whip ; but he dodged the blow, and giving me a 
look full of sinister meaning, prepared to go on. 
The moment of delay, however, had been my 
salvation. As a last hope, I looked up the road, 
and with feelings of joy and gratitude I dis- 
cerned, amid the dust and moving pack trains, a 
mounted figure. It was a horseman ! He was 
galloping at full speed, and by his dress 1 knew 
him to be an American. "Thank God!" I 
murmured; and pointing with my whip, I said 
to the native, " My friends are coming," The 
rascal's keen eye had caught sight of the horse- 
man, and he released his hold on my bridle. 
By this time the horseman was at my side. 
"Why, madam," said he, "you are losing your 
w^ay. Are you alone ?" ''Yes," I replied, and 
immediately told him the whole story, trem- 
2* 



84 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

bling with excitement during its recital. I never 
get frightened until the danger is over, or at 
least these feelings so long held under control 
find expression, when we realize that we have 
passed though a danger, and we are safe. "But 
where is the native? " said the gentleman. We 
looked up and down, far and near, and lo ! he 
had disaj^peared. As though the earth had 
opened and swallowed him, he was nowhere to 
be seen. I expressed some anxiety about my 
friends, and being alone. "Never fear," said 
he; "I'll see to your safety. I am a runner 
from the Louisiana Hotel in Panama, on my 
way to meet the passengers. They are doubt- 
less not far behind." A large drove of pack 
animals was passing, their copper-colored driv- 
ers hoarsely shouting, "A moola ! Hurra! 
Hurra ! ' ' and when the dust occasioned by them 
had drifted away, we saw in the distance the 
passenger train slowly coming into view. With 
many heartfelt thanks to the stranger, whose 
very name to this day is unknown to me, I re- 
joined my friends. But for his timely arrival, 
Avhat might have been my fate ? I shudder to 
think ! Had some trivial circumstance delayed 
his coming five or ten minutes, I doubtless 
would not to-day be here, a living entity; would 
not be here writing by the open window, wliere 
the soft midsummer breeze steals gently through 
the vines, and the mystic music of the pines 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 85 

sings its cliangeful melody. On siicli a slender 
thread does linman destiny so often liang ! 

Eumors were rife of many a dark and bloody 
deed that had been committed on this danger- 
ous route. Men had been murdered for their 
money and clothing, and women had been stolen 
away and murdered for their jewelry. The na- 
tives appeared to be the lowest type of human- 
ity, treacherous, malicious, deceptive and ava- 
ricious, many of them being capable of com- 
mitting the foulest murder for a small sum of 
money. Onl}' a few months before the natives, 
armed, had waylaid a train of passengers, and 
robbed and massacred them in open daylight. 
These dark and awful rumors still filled the air, 
and it was with feelings of gratitude and thank- 
fulness that we arrived at the Louisiana Hotel 
in Panama, and took shelter under its hospita- 
ble roof. To one \n hose eyes had been accus- 
tomed to the onward march of civilization, and 
the giant strides of progress and modern im- 
provements, this quaint and ancient Spanish 
city, crouching in listless apathy, like a grand 
old donna beside the sea, appeared a novel won- 
der. Like all foreign cities of any importance, 
it had its American or English quarter. Here 
was a street of hotels, restaurants, saloons, etc., 
but beyond were the dark adobe buildings and 
bamboo huts. Taking a ramble after supper, 
we paused in front of the dark and gloomy 



36 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

catlif dral, wliicli is built of sun-dried brick, its 
walls several feet thick, and covered with a tile 
roof. The ancient edifice looked as though it 
might have withstood the storms of centuries. 
Here knelt the Spanish devotee, clad in the 
light attire of the low classes of the tropics, 
and side by side with him came the high-born 
Donna and her maid. Before one shrine they 
knelt and offered up their aves to their patron 
saint. 

An object of thoughtful interest was the old 
ruined fort, grass-grown and moss-covered, and 
crumbling beneath the weight of centuries. Its 
echoes responded noAv only to the whirr of the 
bat, the hoot of the owl, and the hiss of the 
venomous reptile; but it held in its massive 
walls many a dark and bloody history. What 
stirring tales of war, invasion and gallant de- 
fense did the crumbling pile suggest! But 
years had passed over its mouldering walls 
since the hand of silence had hushed the ring 
of its aforetime stormy echoes. Could the 
ghosts of those long and half-forgotten days 
arise, there would come forth from those ruined 
aisles and grass-grown walls, the ghosts of mail- 
clad Spanish heroes, whose deeds and deaths 
are linked with that remote period, and with 
the history of the old fort in the days of its an- 
cient splendor. 

It was scarcely considered safe for ladies to 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. . 37 

be out on the streets at niglit, and tliough many 
of us might have enjoyed a stroll under the light 
of the moon in the quaint old town, and in the 
picturesque suburbs, and along its placid shores, 
we were forced to content ourselves as best we 
could at the hotels. My husband, however, in 
company with a fellow-passenger, took advan- 
tage of the beautiful moonlit night for a ramble. 
Save the light of the moon and the few lamps 
and candles in the business houses, the city was 
wrapt in gloom. Some impulse impelled them 
to direct their steps toward the old ruined fort. 
It was growing late, the streets were deserted, 
and silence and gloom brooded over the vicinity. 
As they neared the ruins, they caught the 
sound of female voices not far off. Hastening 
their steps the sounds became more distinct; 
it seemed to be voices in entreaty, mingled with 
sobbing and crying. " There's something wrong 
here," said one. " Let's hurry." A few steps 
farther, and in the dim half-light of the moon, 
they saw a native leading two mounted mules. 
As they approached, a voice rang out: "For 
Heaven's sake save us,'' " w^e want to go to the 
hotel, and this native is taking us we know not 
where." In a moment they were at their side, 
and demanding of the native where he was going 
with the ladies, at the same time attempting to 
take hold of the bridle, which the native held in 
his hand. Nothing daunted, the native defiantly 



38 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

drew a long knife, and uttering a curse prepared 
to defend his position. Enraged, one of the 
Americans presented his revolver and exclaimed, 
" If you don't leave here, I'll blow your brains 
out." The gleam of the revolver jjroved to be a 
powerful persuader, and the Mexican sullenly 
slunk back in the shadows. I'he ladies were 
the wife and daughter of the French Consul of 
San Francisco. When described to me, I re- 
membered having often seen them on ship- 
board; they were remarkable for their large and 
handsome figures, and beautiful, clear complex- 
ions. They explained that they had become 
separated from their ipsiTtj and were late in 
getting in. and the native who had assumed 
charge of their animals was taking them out of 
the city, through the dark and gloomy suburbs. 
Doubtless their flashing jewelry and rich attire 
had been a strong temptation for the avarice of 
the Mexican, for the fact was apparent that he 
was stecdipg them aioay — where and for what pur- 
pose we were left to surmise. With tears and 
sobs they thanked their rescuers, who instantly 
conducted them to the hotel. Their friends, 
who had long been anxiously * awaiting them, 
and wondering why they had not arrived, were 
overjoyed to receive them. This incident, added 
to my own j)ersonal experience convinced me that 
we had heard no idle rumors, that dark and 
mysterious deeds had been committed, and that 
'' the half had not been told.'' 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 39 

A heavy rain had fallen after our arrival, and 
towards evening a crowd of passengers came in, 
many of whom were soaking wet, a dejected look- 
ing set, tired and hungry, and even in that trop- 
ical country chilled through. Truly they looked 
as though "life was one long eternal washday, '' 
and that they had not only cast their colors in 
the conflict, but were ready to be hung up to 
dry. To add to their discomforts, all the extra 
clothing they had with them was wet, too, and 
their trunks — where were they ? ' ' Oh, if I 
only had my trunk ! ' ' was the prevailing senti- 
ment; but one might as well have tried to probe 
the bottom of the sea for a pearl as to think of 
getting one's trunk under the circumstances. 
At such a time one keenly feels the uncertainty 
of all things terrestrial, especially a defenseless 
arid hapless trunk that has taken, or is sup- 
opsed to have taken, a ride over a wild, inhuman 
country on the back of a wild, irresponsible 
mule driven by a wild, demoralized, irrepress- 
ible son of the tropics. Ladies were scolding, 
crying, laughing, and many of the wisest ones 
were rapidly pacing up and down the parlors 
and verandahs ' ' to keep up circulation ' ' until 
they could get a change of clothing. Among 
them all one did not fail to notice those cheer- 
ful and sunshiny natures who, no matter how 
disagreeable the circumstances, always '^make 
the best of it ;" a determination not to let disa- 



40 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

greeable circumstances rob them of enjoyment. 
They wait not for the gifts of fortune, for after 
all the best things we have in life are not what 
are thrown at our feet by the fickle hand of 
fortune, but rather what we gain by stern will 
and strong endeavor. 



CHAPTKR V. 

THE BAY OF PANAMA — PREPARATIONS FOR EMBARKATION — 
THE SCENE ON THE BEACH — THE FLOWER OF MEXICAN 
CHIVALRY — BAY OF ACAPULCO. 

The following morning dawned beautiful and 
bright. How lovely is early morning in the 
tropics ! An early breakfast enabled us to take 
a stroll along the beach. This was the day of 
departure, and already the fine steamer Golden 
Gate lay anchored in the offing. The Bay of 
Panama is one of surpassing beauty. The 
gleaming shore, shell-strewn and even, slopes 
gently to the water's edge, reflecting in its trans- 
parent beauty rock, shells, islands and the my- 
riad boats that float upon its surface. The bay 
abounds in islands, green and lovely, and al- 
most burdened with a w^ealth of tropical ver- 
dure Here are ornamental and pictueresque 
haciendas, owned and occupied by the wealthy 
Dons. Through field and meadow and pasture 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 41 

land roam their fat herds, and goats, and sheep 
climb nimbly over the overhanging rocks, giv- 
ing to the lovely picture an air of homelike 
beauty. In the offing lay moored numerous 
vessels — sailing ships, barks, steamships, etc. 
— and noticeable among them was a large Brit- 
ish man-of-war. Her ponderous hull and omi- 
nous port-holes, from which could be distinctly 
seen the mounted cannon, frowned darkly over 
the green surface of the bay. How fragrant 
was the breeze, blown shoreward from the 
islands! It was perfumed with an aroma of 
spices, oranges, the sweet scent of the coffee 
tree, and the myriad odors of the productions 
of the fascinating tropics. Here everything 
suggests indolence, luxury, abundance, ease. 
No busy hum of trade and commerce, no stir 
and strife of progress and improvement disturbs 
the ease-loving natives. The poorer classes, as 
a rule, collect the mango, the cocoa, the yam, 
the plantain, and other wild fruits for their liv- 
ing—and for their dress — but this was a matter 
which seemed to be of minor importance to 
them, a yard of cotton cloth being generally 
sufficient for a full suit. 

It was not long after sunrise before prepara- 
tions for embarkatioQ were made. The bay, 
gently sloping out to deep water for a distance 
of a hundred yards or more, was so shallow that 
even the small boats could not reach the shore.- 



42 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

How were we to traverse this intervening stretch 
of sea? With iis there was no modern Moses, 
who with a wave of his rod could bid the waves 
roll back, and leave for our willing feet a dry 
roadway to the vessel. In my wanderings it 
had been my fortune to have been familiar with, 
the various mod^s of ti'avel known to Christen- 
dom — steamshiiD, steamboat, canal boat, flat 
boat, stage-ride, horseback, muleback — ])ut the 
means necessary to be employed in order to 
reach the small boats was a "new departure" 
from any style of traveling which I had hereto- 
fore known. As the Central American native 
seems to be. to all intents and purposes, an am- 
phibious animal, it was therefore necessary, as 
the only available ex23edient, to call into requi- 
sition his services for this important undertak- 
ing. Previous to this, many of the ladies had 
thought that a muleback ride comprised the 
realization of the horrible. What, therefore, 
must have been their despair when they saw 
that, in order to traverse that sheet of inter- 
vening sea, it was necessary — nay, unavoidable 
— to take that celebrated "post-back" ride with 
which all early Oalifornians are acquainted, 
either thx^ough experience or rehearsal. 

The scene on the beach was one never to be 
forgotten. It is photograplied on my memory 
with imperishable fidelity. Beyond, in the of- 
fing, lay the grand steamer, her officers and 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 43' 

crew busy in making preparations for a speedy 
departure. Near by were tlie small boats, 
manned by swartliy natives; and on the beach 
Avere crowds of passengers and piles of baggage 
and freight. Among them all moved the dusky, 
half-nude figures of the natives, intent on mak- 
ing as many ten-cent trips, the price of trans- 
portation, as possible. The outlook was any- 
thing but desirable. Anxious faces looked sea- 
ward, and trembling voices inquired if the boats 
could not be "got nearer." Ladies looked dis- 
mayed, and fat people, men and women, were 
in despair; but, whatever feelings of repug- 
nance or fear we may have had to this novel 
mode of traveling, had to be thrust aside. It 
was one of the things inevitable, and the placid 
bay was soon disturbed by the lithe figures of 
the natives, bearing their novel burdens to the 
boats. What a medley of voices! — screaming 
and crying and laughing, not to chronicle any 
harsher expression of feeling. A thin, slender 
native offered his services to an alder manic old 
gentleman. "Me pack Mericano — ten cent," 
said the native. "O, God bless me!" puffed 
tlie old gentleman, "I'm afraid — I'm afraid, 
my good fellow — I'm afraid you couldn't just 
stand up to it." "O, me pack— -me pack," in- 
sisted the native. The gentleman, seeing no 
better opportunity, accepted of his services, 
but his thin shanks trembled visiblv, and when, 



44 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

about half way to the boats, the native slip]3ed, 
it brought a terrific scream from the frightened 
voyager. 

As we were all burdened with our traveling 
equipments, each tried to take what they could. 
As a consequence many an article w^as dropped 
by its frightened owner and went bobbing over 
the smooth surface of the bay ; gripsacks, hand 
satchels, shawls, etc., were seen occasionally, 
floating on the waves ; they were, however, 
generally recovered by the agile natives. By 
the small boats we were conveyed to the ship's 
side, where a pair of steps were lowered to the 
water's edge, and by this means we ascended to 
the deck. If the sea happened to be rough, it 
was with great difficulty that the boats could 
keep their position near enough to the steps, in 
which event there was danger of losing one's 
footing and slipping between ; fortunately we 
had no serious accident. After the completion 
of the railroad across the Isthmus a staunch 
wharf was built by the company, and vessels 
since steam up to the wharf, receiving and de- 
livering freight and passengers without the in- 
convenience which the early emigrant experi- 
enced. A gentleman whom I met years after- 
wards, and who had shortly before visited the 
East, remarked: "Well, the railroad is com- 
pleted across the Isthmus; the passengers step 
off the ship on to the cars — all very nice and very 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 45 

pleasant ; but there's no more mule back ride, 
no more post back ride, and not a bit of fun." 
After much hurry and toil our gallant ship was 
freighted and filled, and a strong breeze having 
sprung up, the sails were unfurled, and under 
steam and sail she swung round and rapidly put 
to sea. We glide past fragrant islands, rich 
with their wealth of verdure, their quaint homes 
nestling in orange and mango groves, the cattle 
and flocks of goats feeding on the hills — all 
seen indistinctly through the soft, filmy haze of 
the tropic seas. With the little boats idly rest- 
ing in cove or on sandy beach, one recalls to 
memory the beautiful lines : 

" For tb(-y sail their ships 
Through the waters that slip 
Among the bright isles of the good and the blest.'' 

Indeed it was difficult to associate a thought 
of other than ' ' the good and the blest ' ' with 
such a picture. One was fain to think that life 
might pass in such a place without a jarring 
note or sound of discord to mar the serenity of 
its luxurious beauty. But around on every 
hand were the evidences that ignorance and 
superstition and the despotism of Papal power 
held dominant swav. No free schools of en- 
lightenment instructed them in progress and 
intelligence, and scarcely yet had the illumina- 
ting daAvn of Christian civilization shed its first 
faint beams on this gifted tropical land. 



46 THE MARCH OF EMPIEE. 

Soon the green shore and the verdant islands 
were lost to view in the dim rim of the ocean. 
For days it was ours to see nothing but the 
blue expanse of waters, its myriad fish, and at 
rare intervals, a stray sea-bird. With what 
pleasure we sat at night at the prow of the ves- 
sel and watched the luminous phosphorescent 
light, which the ship ploughed up like myriad 
sparks of fire, as she skimmed through the dark 
blue water. Often a shoal of fiying fish were 
blown across the vessel's deck; numbers were 
caught and examined; they were provided with 
fin-like wings, with which they were enabled to 
fly with the wind quite a distance. Large black 
fish Avere often seen, throwing jets of spray 
many feet in the air; these fish resemble whales. 
Porpoises, sharks, and the beautiful changeable 
dolphin, were at times seen. Early one morn- 
ing we awoke to find that the mountainous coast 
of Mexico was plainly visible on our right, and 
weie told that we were entering the harbor of 
Acapulco. The bay of Acapulco is perhaps one 
of the handsomest land-locked harbors in the 
Avorld. Bock-ribbed and rock-bound, it is sur- 
rounded on all sides save the one point of en- 
try. The gray dawn was just stealing over the 
sleeping water as the vessel cast anchor some 
distance from the shore. Of the town itself 
little could be seen; but the old fort, partly 
dismantled and dilapidated, but still occupied 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 47 

bj the flower of Mexican chivalry, frowned 
grimly down from its commanding elevation. 
From the fort ijie beach sloped gently to the 
water. Out from the shore came numerous 
smajl boats, resembling canoes, impelled by 
natives and laden with the most delicious fruits 
of the tropics, and with rare sea-shells and 
other curiosities peculiar to the country. They 
drifted alongside the ship and in broken English 
offered their wares for sale. Up from the salt 
sea there floated the fragrant aroma of oranges, 
pineapples, bananas, lemons, etc., and a brisk 
trade in these articles commenced. Basket-, 
with long strings attached, for ihe purpose of 
drawing our purchases up to the deck, a dis- 
tance of some 30 or 40 feet, were furnished by the 
natives. Twenty -five large oranges for 25 cents, 
pineapples 25 cents each, and everything else 
in proportion, and soon bunches of the beauti- 
ful fruit festooned every compiirtment of the 
vessel. The long saloon was as fragrant as a 
tropical garden; we had effectually dispelled 
for that voyage the peculiar salt water smell — 
the odor of pitch, paint, etc. Most of the pas- 
sengers ate sparingly, though the tempting fruit 
looked delicious; but the dread of malaria-^ 
"Panama fe\^r" — against whose fatal attacks 
all had been warned, kept their appetite in 
check. 

Having sold out, most of the boats withdrew 



48 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

and then the diving commenced. These Mex- 
icans take to the water as naturally as a duck; 
they seem to be as much at home in the water 
as out of it. Boys, youths, and full grown men 
would plunge headlong from the prow of .their 
boats in order to secure the small coins which 
the passengers, in infinite amusement, tossed 
from the vessel. Many a time the dusky figure 
of a Mexican disappeared far out of sight as he 
searched for the coin, but reappearing, he blew 
the water from his mouth and shook his shaggy 
hair like a dog, and was readv for another dive. 



CHARXKR VI. 

STORY OF THE CASTAWAYS — ON WATER ALLOWANCE — COM- 
MITTED TO THE DEEP — LEFT TO PERISH. 

Here in this rock-bound harbor was brought 
more vividly to my recollection, the story of my 
husband's early experience as first related to 
me. In the spring of 1852 he took passage 
from New Orleans by way of Central America 
for California. His ticket took him only as far 
as Aspinwall, where it was supposed that ves- 
sels would be in readiness at Panama to take 
them the remainder of the journey. That year 
there was a very heavy emigration by sea. To 



THE MARCH OF EMPIEE. 49 

supply tlie demand, companies of speculators 
chartered old, unseawortliy vessels, and pro- 
visioning tliem on tlie cheapest plan, put to sea. 
In consequence, some of tliem were lost, and 
some were stranded on tlie Mexican coast, and 
the passengers abandoned to their fate. So 
great was the emigration that the port Avas 
crowded with eager emigrants waiting for ves- 
sels to take them on. After remaining in Pan- 
ama some time, my husband, in comj)any with a 
number of others, took passage on a sailing ves- 
sel \\ liicli proved to be an old condemned hulk, 
refitted by a swindling company, and not even 
*' good for this trip only." Before purchasing 
tickets, a number 'of the passengers applied to 
the American Consul at Panama for informa- 
tion in regard to the vessel, the company, etc., 
and were assured by him that the Russell, the 
name of the vessel on which they were to sail, 
was a seaworthy vessel, and that the company 
that fitted her out was perfectly reliable and re- 
sponsible; they therefore purchased tickets, 
paying $160 to San Francisco. This sum in 
many instances was all the money many of the 
passengers could command. Soon after setting 
sail, they found to their dismay that the ship 
was poorly provisioned and meagerly supplied 
with water. To add to their anxiety, for days 
and days the wind ceased to blow, and they lay 
3 



50 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

becalmed in the awful heat of the torrid sun, 
under the equator. 

It was not long before they were put on water 
allowance. A half pint of dirty, thick liquid 
being a daily allowance. Their pro^dsions con- 
sisted^of hard, mouldy sea biscuits, rotten meat, 
mouldy rice, etc., none of it being eatable. 
Without nourishment, and suffering for want of 
pure water,' it was not long before the Panama 
fever seized on the weakest and most delicate, 
and the measles in an aggravated form, also 
broke out among them. Many were prostrated 
and lingered for days and even weeks, piteously 
moaning in their delirium for home and absent 
friends, and at last died afar from those they 
loved; a slow death of disease and starvation, 
without a draught of pure water to moisten 
their dying lips. Among the number of that 
hopeful band, more than twenty died and were 
solemnly committed to the deep — their half- 
starved and wretched companions, helpless wit- 
nesses to the mournful truth. At last, after a 
period of 53 days, they neared the i:>ort of 
Acapulco. Here the captain anchored his ves- 
sel, and having abandoned it, left the jDassen- 
gers to whatever fate might have in store for 
them. Cast in a foreign port, without friends, 
and many of them without money — they real- 
ized the helplessness of their condition, and 
dark rumors were afloat of lynching the author 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 51 

of their miseries, but these rumors reaching 
the captain's ears, doubtless accelerated his de- 
])arture , f or he took passage on the next steam- 
er bound for San Francisco. Those of the pas- 
sengers who had money did so, also, but many 
had not a dollar, and were forced to remain. 
They applied to the American Consul at Aca- 
pulco, and to his shame be it said, he did noth- 
ing whatever to assist them in any way. Most 
of them were sick, all were weak and feeble 
from long starvation and lack of nourishment; 
they however obtained fre.>li water but could get 
nothing to eat without money. Without money 
and without friends, and unable to understand 
the language of the natives, they could do 
nothing — this handful of half-starved men, but 
to prolong existence as best they could, in the 
hope that sooner or later they would succeed in 
escaping on some passing vessel. Such was 
their almost hopeless condition. 

The provisions which the ship still contained 
had dwindled down to mouldy rice and mouldy 
sea biscuits, the biscuits to all appearance 
having been baked years and years before, and 
were so hard as to effectually resist all efforts to 
break them, and when chopped open by means 
of axes or hatchets, they were full of green and 
yellow mould, and alive with small black bugs. 
The starving men often soaked these biscuits in 
the swill-barrel at the cook house — this being 



52 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

all tliat stood between tliem and starvation 
Tliey were not however alone in their miseries 
and misfortunes. They found on their arrival 
that two or three vessels had preceded them, 
having been cast into port and abandoned by 
their captains. These vessels had been fitted out 
by the same company that fitted out the Russell. 
It Avas without doubt a preconceived arrange- 
ment to agree to take them through to San Fran- 
cisco, exacting full fare, and then cast them 
ashore at Acapulco. The American Consul at 
Panama was suspected of being interested in 
the speculation. At least his conduct was 
reprehensible, as he had not taken the trouble 
to acquaint himself with the character of the 
vessels, but not the least shadow of an excuse 
could be found for the conduct of the Consul 
at Acapulco. Here were a number of his own 
countrymen starving and friendless — vrithout 
the means of assistance, who had been cast 
ashore at the foreign port where he held his po- 
sition. They applied to him for assistance, 
and he did nothing whatever to aid them. 

Had it not been for iiope, they could not have 
survived — the strongest constitution must have 
succumbed; but Hope, the blessed illusion, still 
beckoned them on — kept vigils by their emaci- 
ated forms in the gloom of midnight; held up 
her beacon light, brighter than the tropic sun; 
whispered sweet dreams in their waking and 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 53 

slumbering lionrs, and tlirongh want and sick- 
ness and delirium, still held out to their won- 
dering visions the golden promises that had first 
lured them from home and friends. As days 
passed on, by degrees the little band was 
thinned; some died, and some were stowed 
away on other vessels. Six weeks of this mo- 
notonous time passed away. Ships often came, 
laden witli their freight of passengers, and at 
last, one bright morning, when the fine steamer 
S. S. Lewis, with her humane captain, came into 
port, bound for San Francisco, my husband, de- 
spairing of receiving aid, determined to make a 
desperate effort to escape. In company with 
two or three others, he walked on board the 
vessel, immediately set to work among the sail- 
ors, and mingled with the crew. When fairly 
out to sea, he went to the Captain and plainly 
told his story, at the same time expressing his 
willingness to work for his passage. The Cap- 
tain, a noble and humane man, replied: ''Well, 
that's all right. I'll give you a good, easy job," 
and directed him to wash the decks once a day. 
It was better fortune than was anticipated. In 
tljose days so-called " stow-aways" were often 
disposed of without much ceremony. A large 
rock on the Mexican coast was pointed out to 
me, where it was said that an inhuman captain 
of a ship, on finding a ''stow-away" on his ves- 
sel, had him conveyed and there left him to per- 



54 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

isli. The rock was above water in low tide, but 
was conpletely covered by the sea in high tide- 
When found on his vessel they were nearing 
this rock, and the tide being low, he had him. 
taken in a boat, and left there. Some kind na- 
tives happened to see his perilous situation and 
went to his rescue. The story, which doubtless 
was true, has invested the rock with imperisha- 
ble fame. On arriving in San Francisco, my 
husband learned that the authorities there had 
heard of the forlorn and helpless condition of 
the passengers of the "Russell" and other ves- 
sels at Acapulco, and had sent a ship to their 
relief. What must have been their feelings of 
gratitude and thankfulness on their safe arrival 
after so long and perilous a voyage — a voyage 
which, from the time they left the port of New 
Orleans till they landed on the Pacific shore, 
occupied a period of nearly six months. To 
those who now make the journey from New 
York to San Francisco in six or eight days, 
these old stories of the early emigrants' jour- 
neys and voyages, fraught with peril, romantic 
adventures and hardships, seem like a sensa- 
tional novel. For the most part, they are being 
rapidly forgotten. Now and then we see a gray- 
haired pioneer relating his early experiences j 
but the noble ranks of the early pioneers are 
growing sadly thin, and the young and rising 
generation is filling up the vacancies. When we 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 55 

look abroad upon the land, and see the wealth 
of her splendid cities, and the beanty and pros- 
perity of her country homes, how little we think 
of the priceless treasures that were poured out 
for their purchase — of the toil and self-denial 
and sacrifice of those whose first footsteps left 
their impress on her soil. 



CHAP^TKR VII. 

A GRAVE BY THE SEASIDE — THE MEETING OF A STEAMER — 
THE SHIP ON FIRE — STANDING ON THE SHORE, 

Before leaving the harbor of Acapulco, let me 
direct the reader's attention or memory to a 
grove of palm trees at the northern extremity 
of the bay; drooping and cool, the luxurious 
leaves seem trailing their slender points in the 
rippling water. In the bosom of the grove is 
the grave of a young American lady. The story 
is one full of touching interest, and was related 
to me by an eye witness of the occurrence. The 
captain of a ship was taking his young and 
beautiful sister to the Sandwich Islands for her 
health, but when within -a short distance of 
Acapulco she died. Within this lonely grove 
of palms her grave was made. 



56 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

And there they laid her, 'mid the dark, dim 

Shades, where orange flowers ever bloom above her tomb; ■ 

Near the bi'oad bay, sheltered from the ocean's storms, 

Where tropic breezes softly blow; and voyagers upon 

The sunlit sea look on her place of rest and heed 

It not — unknowing that beneath these shadowy 

Palms, in this secluded spot, a gentle maiden sleeps. 

Though our short stay at the port of Aca- 
pulco was full of interest, and served to dispel 
for the time the monotony of the voyage; yet 
when the vessel swung round, and with her 
prow turned northward was steaming up the 
coast, we looked ahead with eager hopes, know- 
ing that with no untoward circumstances, and 
wdtli fair weather, in a few short days — 

" That upward from yon sun-lined main 
We soon should see the golden shore." 

Up to this time little sickness and no deaths 
had occurred, but one morning we heard that a 
young German, with whom we were slightly 
acquainted, was very sick. He had eaten too 
much of the '^forbidden fruit," fever ensued, 
and soon he was raving in delirium. His rav- 
ings, in broken English, were pitiful to hear. 
Nothing, however, could alleviate his sufferings; 
he lingered so for a few days, and one morning 
I woke to find that an ominous stillness reigned 
about his state-room — it was the awful silence 
of death. In the still watches of the night his 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 57 

spirit had passed away. A little band of 
friends gathered around and prepared his body 
for burial. A burial at sea is one of more than 
ordinary solemnity. The body was brought on 
deck and sewed securely in a canvas sheet, a 
weight being placed at the feet, and, while the 
steamer lay to and silently floated on the waves, 
friends and companions gathered around, and 
in the soft glow of the evening sunset a chapter 
was read and a prayer solemnly offered up. 
The remains were then placed on a board, feet 
outward, and amid the awful stillness it was 
slowly lowered into the bosom of the ocean — 
the waves parted, closed over the inanimate 
form, and all that was mortal of one who had 
lately moved among us, the picture of life and 
high health, had sunk to rest in that dreamless 
sleep that knows no awakening until ' ' the sea 
shall give up its dead." To most of us he was 
a stranger, but doubtless in the far off Father- 
land some loving heart broke over the sad news 
of his early death, and waiting hearts hoped 
anxiously for letters from the absent one — let- 
ters that never came, and how vainly they lis- 
tened for the footstep and the sound of the fa- 
miliar voice that was destined never again to 
wake the echoes of home. Three times after- 
wards we were witnesses of the solemn and 
mournful ceremony of a burial at sea. 

Still steaming up the coast we saw, one bright 
3^ 



58 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

da}^ far ahead of us, a faint object on the rim 
of the horizon; each moment it becomes more 
palpably real, and we are soon conscions that it 
is a vessel nearing us. How shall I describe 
the meeting of a steamer on the wild loneliness 
of the ocean? Dimly we see her masts and 
rigging, and her black hull ploughing through 
the dancing waves. All eyes are centered on 
the object; nearer she comes, over the deep, 
like a thing of life, sails and pennants and flags 
streaming in the breeze, and a dark vapor of 
smoke trailing like a cloudy veil to the wind- 
ward; we hear the throb of her mighty engines, 
the dip and splash of her revolving wheels — 
nearer she comes ! There's a jingling of little 
bells, a cessation of the throbbing of the en- 
gines, the paddle wheels are still, and gently 
gliding she floats upon the waves — a queen of 
the sea. Crowded on the prow are the passen- 
gers, waving hats and handkerchiefs, while 
cheer upon cheer rings like welcome music 
over tlie wild waves. The shouts are caught up 
on our side, and echoed back again and again. 
A small boat puts out from the steamer, manned 
by two jolly tars, and bearing the captain or 
first officer, who boards us and presents our 
captain with the latest news from California. 
There is an interchange of news, of friendly 
feeling, and soon Ave see the small boat return- 
ing. Again there is a jingling of the little 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 59 

bells, a heaving of the engines, and the wheels 
begin to revolve; a dip and a splash of the 
wheels, and then another cheer rings clear and 
musical, with echo upon echo, and the steamers 
have passed. How like the- fleeting vision of 
many a winsome face we have met on the broad 
ocean of life ! Though the event in itself seems 
trivial, yet the meeting of a vessel in mid ocean 
and a friendly interchange of salutes, is like a 
green spot in the wilderness, or like a friendly 
face in a foreign land. It breaks the monotony 
of thought; it breaks the monotony of the view 
of endless waves forever rolling outward toward 
the great sun, which seems to set within their 
depths. 

We passed one fair day the dark and desolate 
looldng Island of Marguerita. Its rocky head- 
lands and inhospitable shores had a short time 
before been the scene of a terrible disaster. In 
1853, the "Independence," bound for San Fran- 
cisco, when near the island struck on a rock. 
The thrilling story of the wreck was related to 
me by a friend, who was one of her passengers. 
Soon after striking, it was discovered that the 
ship was on fire; every effort was made to quench 
the flames — crew and passengers worked brave- 
ly, and succeeded in keeping it in check until 
they neared the island. It was the captain's 
hope to drive her on the beach. A scene of the 
wildest confusion now ensued; as the ship was 



60 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

filling witli water the boats were immediately 
lowered, but so eager were the excited jDassen- 
gers to escape, that the first two or three boats 
were overloaded, and amid the din and general 
confusion, and the terrified shrieks of men, 
women and children, they sank before they left 
the side of the shij^. The excitement amounted 
to a panic. Hundreds of passengers jumped 
overboard in the vain hope of swimming to the 
shore. As they touched the water, they were 
grasped by those who were already drowning; 
others joined them, and clinging to each other 
in groups and knots in the struggle for life, and 
in the agony of despair and death, they sank to 
rise no more. It was useless to endeavor to 
swim when the sea around the vessel was full of 
drowning men. 

An attempt was made to save some by means 
of a strong cable which was attached to the ship, 
a boat having succeeded in reaching the shore 
and securely fastening the other end. The rope 
was soon filled, but so great was the strain 
upon it that it broke midway, precipitating the 
passengers into the sea. My friend and his 
companion were ex23ert swimmers, but the dis- 
tance and the roughness of the sea rendered the 
attempt doubtful. Most of the women and 
children were saved; the captain stood with pis- 
tol in hand, declaring he would shoot down any 
man who tried to escape in the boats before the 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 61 

ladies were all saved. My friend and liis com- 
panion were calm and self-possessed; tliey wit- 
nessed tlie terrible scene, and concluded to re- 
main on board as long as possible, and when the 
vicinity around the burning vessel was cleared 
of the dead and drowning, they would make a 
brave attempt to swim for their lives. At last 
the auspicious moment arrived. The heat was 
now becoming intolerable, and the ship was 
rapidly sinking. Realizing their awful situa- 
tion, they looked into each other's faces — ''now 
for it," said one, and hastily divesting them, 
selves of most of their clothing, they looked 
ahead, and seeing the way was clear, they simul- 
taneously made a bold leap from the doomed 
ship. "We took it easy," said my friend, 
when relating the story, "resting occasionally, 
and then going ahead with even, steady strokes; 
biit I found before proceeding half the dis- 
tance, that fatigue was telling on me. I rested 
oftener, my companion always keeping near, 
but somewhat in advance. My limbs began to 
feel numb and torpid; a terrible weakness and 
lassitude was stealing over me, I looked and 
saw that the shore was slowly growing nearer — 
but every stroke now required my utmost 
strength, I looked again, and saw my compan- 
ion standing on the shore and beckoning me, 
but my strength had failed — not even his cheers 
could renew my energy. It required all my ef- 



62 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

forts to l)car myself up. Suddenly I felt myself 
borne onwarl by ii strong wave, and with joy 
unspeakable, I realized tliat my hands touched 
the sands of the shore! With that thrill of rap- 
ture, all consciousness fled. When I awoke, I 
was resting ' high and dry ' on the warm 
sands of the beach — ^out of the reach of the 
tide. By my side sat my companion, weak and 
f^int, he too had had a close race for life; but 
reaching the shore some moments in advance 
of me, was just able to drag my senseless form 
out of the way of the receding waves." The 
scene was one which well might fill with dismay 
the stoutest heart. In the offing, tossed by the 
surging waves, was the dismantled ship, from 
stem to stern a complete mass of lurid flame. 
On the rock-bound beach, gathered in groups, 
were the pitif iil remnant of destitute passengers. 
Some weeping bitterly and calling on those they 
loved, searched eagerly the bodies of the dead 
that the waves had cast up, in the hope of rec- 
ognizing a friend. Most of the women were 
saved, but some of them had lost all that hith- 
erto lent to life its brightest charm — a husband, 
brother or son. Of all that hopeful and happy 
throng that took passage on the staunch and 
nol)le ship, only a small remnant remained 
alive, and those were cast on a desolate island, 
half-clothed, without shelter, and nearly desti- 
tute — the outlook was indeed a gloomy one. A 



THE MARCH OF EMPIEE. 63 

small store of provisions had be 311 hastily 
throYvii into one of the boats. Bat relief soon 
came; by some means, the news of the disaster 
soon reached San Francisco, and a ship was sent 
to their assistance. Whatever may have been said 
of the " greed of gold," v\^hich prompted thou- 
sands to seek C ilifornia in its earliest days, it 
had no effect in closing their hearts to the cry 
of suffering. Their sensitive hearts responded 
quickly to the appeals of sorro^v and misfor- 
tune, and with open-handed generosity they 
were ever ready to relieve the wants of the des- 
titute and distressed. And be it said, too, to 
their honor, that the habit has not "grown 
weary in well doing." The many charitable in- 
stitutions and homes for the friendless, stand 
as eloquent monuments to their noble deeds. 



CHAT^TKR VIII. 

THE QUEEN ^OF THE WEST — "THE HOXEST MIN^ER" — TOWARD 
THE MINES. 

At the close of a long, fair day, the 26th of 
October, 1854, our voyage was nearing its com- 
pletion. The sea was possessed of that happy 
quiet known to the Pacific. Over its bosom the 
myriad lights reflected and radiated from the 
gold of the vanished sun. The dancing waves 



64 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

S33med joyously luring us onward. To the 
riglit t!i3 ro3ky hsadlands of the coast of Cali- 
fornia became each instant more distinctly visi- 
ble, and wrapt in the blue haze of distance 
and dimly seen in the gathering twilight, we 
discerned the gray wings of the Golden Gate, 
as though thrown open to receive us. A dreamy 
vapor, of soft, gray tint, wrapt its battlemented 
heights, between which flowed in ceaseless 
grandeur the broad surface of the sea. As night 
drew on, the myriad stars in the blue dome of 
heaven cast their clear reflections upon the 
water, and lit like beacon lights our pathway 
on the deep. With what happy hearts we 
neared the shore — the golden shore — the land 
of enchantment, of beauty, of dazzling wealth. 
Floating outward from the dusky rim of ' ' the 
long, low-lying golden strand," came the sweet 
land breeze, so fragrant to our senses, so grate- 
ful to the weary voyager. With hearts elate 
and eyes happy with delight, we strain our vis- 
ion to catch a glimpse through the dusky shadows 
of the night of the imperial city of the west — 
the queen of the Pacific ! Out of the gloom 
there flashes a light ! another, and yet another, 
and lo ! before our enraptured vision, she sits 
enthroned upon her thousand hills, her myriad 
lights flashing and radiating like so many thou- 
sand gems far out on the bosom of the tranquil 
bay. To us the strange, bright land means 



THE MAECH OF EMPIBE. 65 

home, and the steamer Laving moored at the 
wharf, we gratefully and with happy hearts take 
up our line of march for the shore. How awk- 
wardly and unsteadily our '' sea legs " navigate 
for a time the smooth and level wharf and plank 
walk. So long accustomed to the pitch and 
toss and careening motion of the ship, we with 
difficulty graduate our locomotion to the solid, 
unyielding surface of mother earth. 

Well, reader, if you have ever been on ship 
board you will know with what pleasure — nay, 
unspeakable delight — we sat down to a supper of 
beefsteak, eggs, fresh butter, etc., and lingering 
over it all was the delicious fragrance of home 
and land, and we may be excused if with an 
unusual flow of spirits we next morning arose 
and looked out upon the broad, green land, and 
felt that we were free to roam wherever we list. 
No longer imprisoned in the narrow confines of 
the vessel, at the mercy of wind and wave, but 
standing on American soil and gazing over the 
broad and beautiful land, we felt that it was 
ours. Even at this early date San Francisco 
possessed many of the characteristics of a well 
developed city. For the most part the build- 
ings were hastily erected wooden structures 
built to supply the immediate demand, but it 
contained many handsome and costly- edifices, 
numerous churches, schools, public halls, and 
one fine theater. Situated as it was among the 



66 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

sand liills, tlie streets extended over hills and 
hollows, very little attention at that early date 
having been paid to grading and leveling. A 
large part of the business portion of the city 
was built over the bay — an insecure foundation 
one felt it to be, and which it proved in many 
instances; the rotting away of the planks on the 
sidewalks and wdiarves created the fatal " man 
traps" so well remembered of those early 
times, and which rendered it unsafe for pedes- 
trians at night, esjDecially strangers. The city 
of San Francisco was peculiar in many respects. 
When we come to reflect that only six years 
before it w^as an insignificant trading post, 
known as Yerba Buena (sweet herb), with no 
stir and none of the energetic activity that 
marks the thriving metropolis, and possessing 
only a few hundred inhabitants, we look upon 
its sudden growth and evidences of wealth as 
something akin to enchantment. 

In one short year, the year of 1849, it in- 
creased in population from two to twenty thou- 
sand. We look in wonder upon its crowded 
wharves, with merchandise from every land; its 
thronging thoroughfares, filled with energetic 
citizens and strangers; and out upon the cres- 
cent rim of its beautiful bay, and see steamers, 
shij^s and vessels of every description and of 
every nationality, riding at anchor or arriving 
and departing. In wonder and admiration we 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 67 

ask : Whence comes tliis change ? What magic 
has wrought this wonderful transformation? 
The mystery is solved in the answer: Gold! the 
powerful lever that moves the civilized world. 
Since the first discovery of gold, at Sutter's 
Mill, near Coloma, in January, 1848, the aurif- 
erous metal had poured in almost ceaseless 
profusion into the city from the mines in the 
interior. One could hear its musical ring from 
day to day in the crowded business houses and 
banking establishments; and night and day the 
gambling saloons, fitted up in glittering splendor, 
held their gilded portals open to the professional 
sharper and the unskilled dupe. As San Francis- 
co was the nucleus of all trafiic-on the Pacific 
Coast, the "honest miner," having '^made his 
pile," returning homeward, spent a few days in 
the city; or, wishing to have a rest and a good 
time, came hither. Away from friends, and 
weary of the thronging masses that surged up 
and down the busy streets, lonely and home- 
sick, the open and hospitable doors of the 
gambling saloons presented a pleasant tempta- 
tion. Inside was light, cordiality, music, and 
around the long tables centred an uuAvonted 
attraction. Groups of men stood eagerly watch- 
ing the players, as fortunes changed hands on 
a throw of the dice or the turn of a card. Un- 
der such circumstances, what wonder, if be- 
coming mad with play and reckless with drink. 



68 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

men risked all, and losing, ended life by their 
own hands. 

The peculiar characteristics of the society of 
this young and wondrous city were due to the 
very circumstances to which it owed its growth 
and onward march. The potent cry of gold, its 
discovery and profusion, had reached not only 
the Eastern States, but had spread over all 
parts of the world. Bepresentatives of every 
quarter of the globe flocked to its golden Shores. 
Every language under the sun was syllabled on 
her crowded streets. Every denomination of 
religion was respected and tolerated. Here 
stood, in unostentatious modesty, the Chris- 
tian's house of worship, and by its side was the 
gaudy pagan temple — the joss house of the 
Chinaman — also the synagogue of the Jew. 
Each worshipped his own peculiar God in his 
own peculiar fashion. There was but one god 
to whom all devotees bowed in universal hom- 
age, irrespective of "race, age, color or prev- 
ious condition," wdthout regard to politics or 
place of birth, each heart poured out the rich 
libation of its homage to the god gold. Gold 
was the grand incentive — everywhere was the 
extravagant display of wealth. Ladies prom- 
enaded the streets attired in delicate-hued 
silks and satins; others not so gayly, but just 
as extravagantly dressed, appeared in rich and 
heavy velvets and satins, and flashing with 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 69 

jems set in tlie pure yellow gold of tlie country. 
The grand opportunities of this far western 
slope offered rare inducements to all classes of 
men, unsuccessful politicians, lawyers, and 
"gentlemen of leisure " who belong to that vast 
class who, like Micawber, are always looking for 
"something to turn up;" and men of the worst 
character — thieves, gamblers, desperadoes, etc. 
— mixed in the crowded thoroughfares. In such 
a pecvdiar society, it would seem that it would 
require ages and ages to transfer or remodel it 
into anything approaching harmony and order. 
Though gold was the grand incentive, yet there 
were not wanting good men, men of noble 
worth and sterling principles, who on more than 
one occasion when justice slumbered and right 
was crushed, and wrong, riot and outrage ran 
through the country, by their wisdom and concer- 
ted movement saved and restored society to tran- 
quility and order. No small degree of praise is 
due, also, to the noble Christian women, who 
having left home and early friendships, came 
with their families to sojourn in this new land. 
It Avas due largely to their influence and exer- 
tions that churches flourished, Sunday schools 
were inaugurated, and many societies for the 
relief of the sick, friendless and distressed were 
organized. TIiosl' early pioneer women were 
the very "Mothers of Israel" to the young, 
disorganized and reckless state of society at 
that time. 



70 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

Time could not be taken to remain long in 
San Francisco. Our future home was nestling 
among tlie aromatic liills of the Sierras — tliitlier 
one bright morning we turned our faces, and 
once more we were on the broad and beautiful 
bay; we enter the noble Sacramento — in its 
primitive beauty it was a lovely stream — clear 
as crystal, abounding in salmon and other fish. 
Since the mining era its waters have become 
unlovely and muddy. Barges and scows fleck 
its bosom, bearing grain, vegetables, and pro- 
duce of all kinds to the Bay. Along the banks 
are numerous Indian villages. Here, "Lo, the 
poor Indian," spears salmon and dries them in 
the sun. The Digger Indian is a wretched, 
dirty, miserable creature, so far removed in his 
habits from humanity, as to scarcely be deserv- 
ing of the name. So hideous do the older ones 
appear, that they are often frightful. It was a 
long time before I could accustom myself to 
look at them without a feeling of re23ugnance. 
The absence of all the noble traits with which 
Fennimore Cooper and like writers have invest- 
ed the Indian character, in them is painfully 
conspicuous. They are small in stature, indo- 
lent, treacherous and cowardly, and like their 
more noble brethren are fast passing away. It 
is with surprise and pleasure that we note the 
many prosperous looking farms or "ranches" 
as they are termed in the far west, along the 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 71 

banks of the river. The rich bottom lands pro- 
duced a wonderful growth of cereals and vege- 
tables, which brought exorbitant prices in 
market. Glimpses of numerous river towns, 
among them Yallejo, Benicia, Sacramento, etc., 
lent to the country an Eastern aspect, and hav- 
ing reached Marysville at the junction of the 
Yuba and Feather Eivers, a pretty town of sev- 
eral thousand inhabitants and a stirring centre 
of trade for the broad plains and many mining 
vicinities, we took the stage for Nevada City — 
the place of our destination. Broad plains and 
rich bottom lands hitherto undisturbed by the 
plow, the domains of "Uncle Sam," lay invit- 
ingly open to the energies and industries of the 
tillers of the soil. It was a popular idea at that 
time that the plain land was worthless, except 
for. grazing purpose?. A few years, however, 
changed that impression. 



SCENES IN THE MINES — THE "LONG TOM " — THE ROCKER — 
THE CHINAMAN, ETC. 

Some miles from Marysville, we came in 
sight of the first mining camp. Down near the 
bed of the river miners were at work; some 
shoveling, some digging, and others throwing 



72 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

dirt into an odd-looking contrivance for saving- 
gold — tlie *'Long Tom," an improvement on the 
"Eocker;" the Rocker being about the first 
rudely-constructed appliance for that purpose. 
Up to this time, the Rocker and the Long Tom 
were in popular use in the rich surface diggings 
along the beds of the rivers. Gold was then 
plentiful and easily saved by the simplest pro- 
cess. The miner toiled day in and day out, 
cheered by th'j reward of yellow gold; and at 
night dreaming of home and loved ones, the 
music of the Long Tom, mingled with the sweet 
voices heard in his dreams. At first sight, a 
miner's camp Avas not to the newly-arrived 
Easterner a very attractive spot, being very 
often a collection of rude cabins built of un- 
hewed pine logs, with chimney of stone or rock 
in the gable end. Above towered the tall, mo- 
tionless pines, through whose branches the gen- 
tle wind made mysterious and fascinating music 
— below, roared the yellow waters of the river, 
and in the background, the yellow hillsides 
were seamed and scarred — the rugged surface 
laid open, scraped and marred by the pick and 
shovel of the indomitable miner. As v\^e ap- 
proached that part of the road which lay along 
the banks of the Yuba, mining camps became ' 
more numerous, some very attractive and pietty 
villages enlivening the scene. Here the inno- 
vations of the Chinamen were observed. Already 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 73 

in the early history of California they were be- 
ginning to crowd white men to the wall. At 
iirst they worked mines that white men had de- 
serted, but gradually in their own unobtrusive 
way, possessed themselves of some of the most 
valuable surface or placer mines. But they 
worked their mines on a far different principle 
from that of others. Others paid their labor- 
ers high wages, boarding them on the best the 
country afforded. The Chinamen brought bands 
of ignorant Coolies from China, who were in 
reality mere slaves, subject to his commands 
and entirely obedient to his authority; he fed 
them on the cheapest diet, rice and other cheap 
articles of food, shipped from his own country: 
the clotliing. too, was brought ready-made from 
China; they slept in tents or cabins deserted by 
other miners, on bunks made of boards and 
sacks for bedding, and a sort of stool or box 
for a pillow. In this way the Chinaman spent 
none of his golden gains in the country, but 
steadily and persistently robbed the country of 
its golden treasure. He sucked the life-blood 
from her veins, laid open her rich arteries of 
treasure, and in unremitting toil gathered it up 
and shipped it to his own land. Though Cali- 
fornia was a free State, and Americans on their 
own soil were not permitted to bring and keep 
slaves to toil in the mines or any other voca- 
tion, yet the Chinaman was tolerated in carry- 
4 



74 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

ing on a system of slavery, more obnoxious and 
more ruinous to American interests than was 
ever African slavery in the Southern States. 
Strange inconsistency of our Government! As 
time wore on, the more thoughtful awoke to a 
realization of the true state of affairs. Every- 
where bands of these yellow-skinned foreigners 
were working like swarms of ants, crowding out 
white men from the best placer mines — where- 
ever they could get a foothold, there they were. 
Shipload after shipload was landed in San 
Francisco — and dispersing, wound their sinuous 
persistent way to the mines. The voice of indig- 
nation rose in strong protest against them. 
Legislation was appealed to, taxes were imposed 
on all foreigners, and exacted of Chinaman. A 
second time taxes were levied on foreigners, 
Chinamen alone being affected by it. They 
were required to pay four dollars per month for 
working in the mines, but they knew no such 
thing as discouragement. Whenever possible, 
they evaded the tax collector. When he made 
his appearance at a viUage, a runner was sent 
to the next, and thence to the next, and soon, 
as if by magic, swarms of Chinamen laden with 
provisions, bundles, etc., Avere seen ambling 
from the villages seeking a hiding place in the 
foot-hills; there they remained a few days till 
they supposed the tax collector had passed, 
and gathering again in the mines, were soon es- 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 75 

tablished at work. Not infrequently imposi- 
tions were practiced upon tliem by tlie miners, 
who viewed them with dislike and suspicion. 
During the dry season, the ''honest miner," 
ever ready for an opportunity to earn a ' ' few 
scads," would occasionally arm himself with a 
large ledger, and donning a coat and assuming 
a solemn and official air, repair to a Chinese 
camp to ''collect taxes." On such unlooked- 
for calls, the Celestials were generally taken un- 
awares, and generally obedient, and cowardly 
delivered up "the ready." If, however, ihey 
were disposed to dispute or evade the point, 
the muzzle of a revolver comj)elled compliance. 
Such raids were regarded by many of the miners 
as a good "joke," and were related with much 
satisfaction. Even at this period they were re- 
garded with great detestation, and the universal 
sentiment was against them. It was the first 
mutterings of the storm — whose rumblings 
have since been heard along the distant years, 
and the fur\' of which have at different times 
risen and subsided — but which to the prophetic 
eye, we fear, has not yet culminated. "Over- 
head the clouds hang low and heavy, as though 
the storm is stayed but not spent." 

Notwithstanding all that has been done to 
stop their further immigration, true to their 
character, they are quietly and persistently 
penetrating our borders, and in every way pos- 



76 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

sible, evading the law. What is to be the end 
of all this? is the pertinent query; a question 
that has agitated the country since the first 
years after the discovery of gold, " China cheap 
labor" is encouraged by monopolies — railroad 
corporations, steamship companies and the or- 
ganizations that profit by their labor; but it is 
the working classes who have keenly felt their 
demoralizing and distressing influence, the in- 
dustrious and deserving, whom by their cheap 
labor they have crowded to the wall and impov- 
erished. In those years they had not as tliej 
have of late, supplanted white labor in the dif- 
ferent branches of mechanical pursuits — large 
manufacturing establishments, and also in the 
rural districts where they are employed in vine- 
yards hop-yards, clearing land, and in other 
ways, not to mention them as having entirely 
monopolized the position of cooks, house-ser- 
vants, gardeners, laundrymen, etc. In every 
branch of industry, tuJiite labor has been crippled 
and paralyzed in consequence of our inability to 
cope with the low rate of wages for which 
Chinamen are satisfied to work. 



THE DELECTABLE MOUNTAINS — THE TOWN OF GRASS VALLEY — 
AN IRASCIBLE MINER. 

How deli glitf 111 was my first view of the 
mountains, the delectable mountains ! Kising 
from the low foot-hills, swell upon swell and 
crest upon crest, until dim and vague their 
snowj summits were merged in the pale 
blue of the far horizon, and as the coach wound 
its way among the hills, the aromatic odors of 
pine, fir and other species of evergreens came 
to us with a pleasing sense of newness; then, 
too, the sun shone with a new and fascinating 
brilliancy, throwing its golden shafts through 
the dark trees that stood in solemn grandeur 
along the wayside, or illuminating the depths 
of cool canons where the river swept its flashing 
waters onward. Everything was new and 
strange, and for me possessed an indescribable 
charm. The active and energetic towns of 
Kough and Keady and Grass Valley, presented 
many attractive home pictures. Here, too, 
were churches and schools. Wherever fam- 
ilies sojourned, churches and schools were 
found — we say sojourned, for very few, if 
any, in those days contemplated permanently 



78 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 



settling in the country; some set the limit of 
their stay to two years, some to three, but very 
few to more than five. At the expiration of 
their self-imposed exile thoy confidently ex- 
pected to have made tlieii- fortune, and return 
"home." But as time wore on, and in many 
instances " fickle fortune " eluded their grasp, 
they came to love the strange, new country, its 
salubrious climate, the pleasant mornings and 
cool, restful nights, and saw that the earth 
wherever watered yielded abundantly, they be- 
gan to make homes, to plant orchards and vine- 
yards, and with a shivering feeling tiiey looked 
back to the sterile, barren winters and the sul- 
try heat of the Eastern States, and found that 
they were wedded to the new home, its very 
customs, the freedom of its lovely hills and val- 
leys. Maiiy, however, suffered keenly the tor- 
tures of home-sick less in vain yearnings to see 
the loved ones of old; like Rachael weeping for 
her children, they "would not be comforted, 
because they were not." At the hotel in Grass 
Valley where we stopped for dinner, I fell into 
conversation with the pleasant landlady. I re- 
marked on the beauty of the surrounding hills 
and lovely view before us. "Ah, yes," she 
replied, "it is all very beautiful, but," with a 
little sigh, "it is not like home." I then knew, 
by the far-away look so full of sadness that her 
gentle heart was pining for the old home-life, 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 79 

the dear companions. and well-beloved associa- 
tions. Her grieving heart doubtless echoed 
the sentiment — 

"I'm lone and sad — and why not be? — 

Upon this foreign strand, 

For o'er the deep, nnfathomed sea 
Sweet th lights will ever visit thee 

My home — my native land!" 

The town of Grass Valley was noted as the 
place where the first quartz mill was erected 
and successfully run. It was for a long time 

the home of Delano (more generally known 

as " Old Block "), a genial writer of early days, 
whose "Chips of the Old Block," containing 
humorous sketches of crossing the plains, life 
in the mines, etc., were universally read. Here 
also dwelt, for some time, the erratic Lola 
Montez. 

It was about three o' clock in the afternoon 
that the coach, enveloped in a cloud of dust, 
drove up to the entrance of the Metropolitan, in 
Nevada City. Around the hotel, and postoffice 
adjacent, groups of rough-looking miners were 
assembled; the narrow and busy streets were 
crowded with a motley throng. Having sought 
our room and divested ourselves of our travel- 
ing wraps, we walked out on the verandah, anx- 
ious to get a glimpse of what was to be our 
home for an indefinite period. Like a strange 



80 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

bird set down on a foreign shore, amid new 
sights and new scenes, I looked around. The 
city itself nestled cosily among the hills, in a 
dip of the mountains, the business portion be- 
ing compactly built. Scattered around on the 
adjacent hills, which environ the city proper, 
were residence houses, cosy cottages and cabins 
of the miners — portions of the city reaching 
outward, as if striving to stretch its wings be- 
yond the narrow limits of its busy centre. Over 
the hills, in every direction, were evidences of 
the track of the miner. The earth wa ^ seamed 
and scarred with ground sluices and perforated 
with holes — deep holes — where old shafts for 
prospecting had been sunk. It looked as though 
demon claws had scooped and hollowed and 
mutilated the bosom of mother earth. Long 
trains of sluice boxes were seen, through which 
roared and ripj)led a stream of yellow, muddy 
water; by the side of them bands of miners 
stood, with their shovels leisurely shoveling in 
the gravelly soil which contained the precious 
metal. Nevada City, at the time of which I 
write, was the center of numerous rich placer 
mines, and was a flourishing and prosperous 
place of business — a very pretty mining town, 
located among the lower Sierras, with a genial, 
salubrious climate, warm and pleasant winters, 
with very little frost and snow ; hardy vegetables 
grow and flourish the year round. Its citizens 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 81 

were energetic and enterprising, and if one 
may judge from the manner in which several 
have since distinguished themselves, were pos- 
sessed of more than ordinary intellectual gifts. 
A. A. Sargent, who has since won Senatorial 
honors, was at tliis time an obscure and unpre- 
tentious lawyer, whose feet had not then com- 
menced ascending the ladder of fame. William 
Stewart was also a young nnknown lawyer; and 
I recall many other names of lesser importance 
who have sprung into honorable notoriety, hav- 
ing for their stepping stone the little mountain 
town — Nevada. 

Soon after our arrival, many of my husband' s 
old mining companions came to visit us. What 
was -my surprise to see them all, without one 
exception, dressed in the recognized uniform of 
the mines — coarse boots, duck overalls and the 
universal gray flannel shirt — this being the 
style adopted by all honest citizens, merchants, 
officials, mechanics, miners and others. No one 
in those days possessed the temerity to initiate 
broadcloth and a ''biled shirt" on ordinary 
occasions, unless it was the sporting class of 
men — gamblers, thieves, road agents, etc. A 
well-dressed man was looked upon with sus- 
picion. If one of "the boys," as the min- 
ers were universally called, should so far forget 
himself as to don a ''stovepipe" hat, he was 
the mark of special derision and practical 
4^ 



82 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

jokes, and was not long permitted to enjoy his 
new possession. In some unguarded moment 
the hat was knocked off, and amid uproarious 
mirth, was set upon by half a dozen fun-loving 
fellows, and soon rendered an uncanny object, 
"a thing that was, but ne'er will be again." 
Notwithstanding the rough appearance of the 
miners, one soon learned that beneath their 
coarse exterior throbbed noble souls and prin- 
ciples of high integrity. So much has hereto- 
fore been written about the desperate and law- 
less class of adventurers who came to Califor- 
nia in early times; but a short residence in the 
country made it apparent that there was also 
another class — the picked men of every nation- 
ality flocked hither to better their fortunes, and 
in quest of adventure; men of fine minds and 
finished education, men of culture and brain. 
As elsewhere, one had only to ^^ choose their 
company, not let their company choose them." 
One was apt to wonder, on first introduction 
into the mines, if these bronze-bearded, gray- 
shir ted miners were the only type of society 
the country afforded; but on better acquaint- 
ance was surprised to find that many of them 
were gentlemen of culture and refinement and 
education, and possessed of a polish of manners 
which well might cause the envy of a Chester- 
field. During the dry seasons, the coat was an 
article of dress universally ignored, and for a 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 83 

miner to sport an umbrella in tlie rainy season 
was a weakness not to be tolerated. But in the 
heavy rains, especially the first rains of the sea- 
son, the regular miner would don his rubber 
suit, boots, coat and hat, and standing out in 
the dripping moistness, enjoy the situation. 
This was considered "the correct thing." 
There was no music so sweet to the miner's 
ears as the- droning melody of the abundant 
rains; to him it sang : more gold ! more gold ! In 
many places they depended entirely on the win- 
ter rains to work their mines. At this time com- 
paratively few women were found at the mines. 
In such well-settled towns as Nevada and Grass 
Valley, there were quite a number; but com- 
pared to the number of men, they were few. 
A new arrival was the subject of general com- 
ment, and a group of miners generally assem- 
bled at '^ stage time " eager to get *' news from 
home," and I may add, to catch a glimpse of 
the newly arrived lady passengers. If some- 
body's wife, or somebody's sister had come, the 
first questions propounded were — * ' Is she 
pretty?' ' and then, "Is she young?'- The eager- 
ness with which men sought to catch a glimpse 
of a "new lady's" face, was remarkable, and to 
the lady, extremely embarrassing. It was not 
the rude stare of impertinence or insolence, for 
excepting perhaps the one thing, gold, the hon- 
est miner had more genuine reverence for a 



84 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

true looman, than anything earthly. The def- 
erential courtesy which emanated from the 
heart, and was not a mere formality, was due 
to circumstances. An article is valued accord- 
ing to its scarcity. The courtesy and reverence 
accorded to women in those early days, was a 
marked feature of society in the mines. A little 
anecdote will serve as illustration. Years after, 
when residing in one of the interior valleys, I 
became acquainted with a lady whose girlhood 
had been spent in the mining town of E. In 
conversation with her one day, she referred to 
the old chivalrous politeness which marked that 
era and place, and with some enthusiasm ex- 
claimed, " Why, wlien I resided in E., I never 
walked up street without having /or^// Aafe lifted 
to me as I passed! but Mrs. S., it is the God's 
truth that I haven't had a hat lifted to me since 
I have lived in this village." The scarcity of 
women, and the corresponding appreciation in 
which they were held, was one of the peculiar 
features of the society in the mines. Entering 
a lecture room, concert or theatre, the house 
would be crowded with men, with perhaps half a 
dozen ladies occupying the front seats. Balls, 
evening parties and socials, though of frequent 
occurrence, often proved a '' delusion and a 
snare," to a large majority of the masculine 
portion. If the presence of half a dozen ladies 
supplemented by three or four little girls, 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 85 

ranging in age from four to ten years could be 
obtained, a grand ball was in order. The hall 
was filled with gentlemen; twenty to one lady, 
being a fair average; engagements were entered 
into so far ahead, that unless a lady frequently re- 
ferred to her memoranda, she was liable to 
make a mistake. If so, some gentleman would 
be slighted, somebody's feelings wounded, words 
followed, a little unpleasantness ensued — the 
lady's particular friend would take it up, and 
about this time the floor manager appeared on 
the scene, and escorted the now highly enraged 
gentlemen from the hall, where the matter was 
generally settled outside in a manner most sat- 
isfactory to the parties. 

In consequence of the scarcity of families, 
''keeping bach" was the prevailing style of 
living among the miners. From four to six 
men usually ' ' cabined ' ' together, taking turns 
doing the cooking week about. A very humor- 
ous story was told us of a very irascible miner, 
which will illustrate some of the annoyances and 
grievances to which they were subject. At 
Wood's Eavine, some four miles from Nevada, 
in a certain cabin, three mining companions 
were ''keeping bach " together. Not to be too 
personal, we shall designate them as A, B and 
C. One Monday morning, B arose early, it 
being " his week " to cook, kindled the fire in 
the huge fire place, and filling a sheet iron 



86 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

camp kettle with water, into whicli he put some 
potatoes to boil, swung it over the fire, and be- 
gan preparations to make some biscuits. A 
few momenta later he noticed that the fire was 
out and there was no water in the kettle; re- 
kindling the fire and filling the kettle, he re- 
sumed his bread making; some time elapsed, 
and having occasion to look at the fire, he was 
astonished to see that there was not a spark, 
and on inspection found that the kettle was 
again dry. This time muttering a "bad word." 
and refilling the kettle and starting the fire 
anew, he continued making the bread. Becom- 
ing absorbed iti that scientific occupation, he 
forgot all about the fire; but on going to put 
the bread into the "Dutch oven," he was 
brought to a halt, by observing that instead of 
a glowing fire, there was nothing but black em- 
bers; the kettle, too, was dry. This was " too. 
much" — at least for B's explosive nature. 
Jerking the kettle from the rack, and giving 
vent to a series of exclamations, he emptied it 
of its contents, and holding it up to the light, 
saw with indignation and disgust, that there 
was a large hole in the bottom ! Striding to 
the door he opened it, threw the kettle on the 
ground and began jumping on it, then seizing 
an ax near by, he placed the kettle on a stump, 
and was mauling it with all his strength, accom- 
panying each blow with remarks that were more 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 87 

expressive than elegant. The noise had long 
before awakened " the boys, ' and one of them, 
C, an unpardonable wag, arose, strode to the 
door, and opening it, looked out at the irate B, 
and coolly remarked, ''Give it to it, Bill, give 
it thunder!" 

What -sacrifices men suffered — what discom- 
forts they endured — what untold yearnings for 
home and loved ones! What exile and isola-' 
tion did they not expsrience for gold! How 
meagerly at the last were they (the vast throng) 
requited. Only the voiceless mountains, scarred 
and seamed with their ambitious endeavors, 
stand mute monuments of many a story of wreck 
and disappointment. 



CHAPTKR XI. 

THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE — DESTRUCTION OF NEVADA CITY 
BY FIRE — SNOW SLIDES IN THE MOUNTAINS. 

In consequence of the lax manner in wliicli 
justice was administered during the first years 
of the country's history, it may not inaptly be 
called the age of crime. Nowhere was life and 
property safe. The daring exploits of noted 
highwaymen, murderers, thieves and robbers 
of every description, and the swindling opera- 
tions of depraved politicians are familiar to the 
readers. It was at this time, while residing in 
Nevada City in 1855-56, that the whole country 
was aroused to indignation by the murder of a 
peaceful citizen of San Francisco^an honora- 
ble and brave man, James King of William, a 
journalist, who had dared to speak out openly 
in defence of the right. For this he was shot 
in open day in a public part of the city. The 
news spread over the country like wild-fire, and 
knowing well the leniency of the law, and the 
depravity of public officials, the people took 
the law in their own hands, and reorganized 
the ''Vigilance Committee," which had dis- 
banded in 1851. The murderer of King was 
speedily hung, a few other executions occurred, 
and Judge Lynch for a time held supreme sway. 



THE MAECH OF EMPIKE. Q\) 

From this time dates the gradual dawning of 
better things in the moral atmosphere of the 
country. 

In the summer of 1856, in July, the beautiful 
and flourishing mountain city of Nevada, was 
destroyed by tire. It was one of those calm, 
autumn-tinted days when the sun shone as it 
shines only in the heat of mid-summer, not a drop 
of water had fallen for months. Sitting at my 
window, my attention was arrested by a shout, 
and as I stepped to the door, out from the heart 
of the city there arose as if from hundreds of 
brazen throats, the cry of fire ! fire !! fire !!! 
along with the cry I observed a dense mass of 
black smoke curling upward, mingled with red 
tongues of fiery flame. With the exception of 
some fifteen or twenty staunch and handsome 
brick buildings, the city was built like all other 
mining towns, of fragile frame buildings — cloth- 
lined, and most of them cloth-ceiled and par- 
titioned. Against the devouring element these 
offered no resistance. Families in the vicinity 
where the fire originated, had barely time to 
escape with their lives; those farther on, moved 
their goods out on to the streets, and as the 
flames advanced, still farther. Soon that por- 
tion of the town was swept clean of every 
building, and now the flames were spreading to 
Main street, in the vicinity of the brick build- 
ings which it was hoped would afford some 



90 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

check to the advance of the rapacious monster. 
Vain hoj^e ! One after another, after a slight 
resistance, was seen to succumb to the devour- 
ing element and the intense heat. Around the 
staunch brick buidings the red tongues of flame 
circled and roared like the howling of demons, 
and yielding to their invincible fury, the fire 
burst from windows and roof, and the tottering 
walls fell. Ere long, the business part of town 
was a sea of flame ! Not a vestige of a building- 
remained, save one — one building alone stood 
the awful avalanche of fire — blackened and 
smoked and begrimed it stood alone, the only 
building left intact and erect on the spot of des- 
olation and ruin. Though many long years 
have passed since then, the event is one that by 
me a mere eye witness will never be forgotten. 
The surrounding hills and suburbs beyond the 
reach of the flames were covered by the escap- 
ing inhabitants — women with their children 
seeking refuge from the fire, and strong men, 
some weeping over the loss of goods and world- 
ly effects; most of them were burdened with all 
they could carry, some were hatless and coat- 
less, and begrimed with dust and smoke in 
their futile endeavors to quench the flames. 
Many had lost all their worldly possessions, 
with nothing left but the clothing they wore, 
others saved their money and jewelry. 

But the saddest chapter in this story of ruin 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 91 

and desolation, was not yet revealed. After it 
was all over, and friend inquired for friend, it 
was ascertained that a number of persons had 
perished. It was supposed that many of the 
staunch brick buildings were " fire -pro of,'' and 
acting on this belief, and in the mad excite- 
ment of the moment, several young men were 
known to have entered these buildings in the 
expectation that they could survive the awful 
deluge of fire. Yain delusion! Their bones 
were found in the cellars, whither they had fled 
in the suffocating heat. Some were identified 
by their watches and portions of clothing near- 
est the ground. So perished, in a mad freak 
of excitement and cruel delusion, some of the 
finest and most promising young men of the 
city. Time has obliterated in my memory their 
names and particulars of their sad fate, but 
doubtless this reference will reach the eye of 
some who have cause to remember sorrowfully 
the minute details. 

The smoke had not cleared away from the 
ruins of the city, before numerous white canvas 
tents rose all over the blackened site, and as 
speedily as possible, the bones and remains of 
the unfortunates were collected and given burial. 
Scarcely had the flames subsided, before prep- 
arations for building were commenced. Teams 
were busy hauling lumber, and soon the ham- 
mer and saw were heard in every part of the 



92 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

burned town. Relief for the destitute and dis- 
tressed was sent from mining camps and valley 
towns far and near, with the promptness and 
generosity so characteristic of the times. In 
the course of a few weeks Nevada emerged 
from her awful baptism of fire, rebuilt and re- 
newed, many of her buildings being replaced 
by more substantial and finer ones than those 
preceding. Almost every mining town of any 
im23ortance suffered from the effects of fire, in 
consequence of the fragile and inflammable 
character of the buildings, and in some cases 
the carelessness of the inhabitants. 

Such was the delightful climate of the lower 
Sierras that it was a most j)leasant place to 
make homes. Possessing a rich, fertile soil 
peculiarly adapted to the growth of fruit, vines 
and vegetables, it was no surprise that in a 
short time the numerous inviting sites for farms 
or ranches were located; and traveling among 
the mountains it was no uncommon thing even 
in those days to come upon a quiet farm nest- 
ling among the hills. A good ^* ranch" was 
more valuable than an ordinary gold mine. 
Farm produce of all kinds had a ready market 
in the towns and camps near by, and fruit, 
butter and eggs brought fabulous prices. 

But mountain farming was not without its 
objectionable features. All land being mineral 
land, according to mining laws, if a gold bed 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 93 

was discovered on a ranch, the discoverer had 
the right, by paying for property destroyed, to 
open up his mine and sluice it all away. I 
have seen many beautiful farms undermined 
and sluiced away, and where once was a cosy 
home, surrounded by orchard, vineyard, grain- 
field, garden, etc., nothing remained but a 
"howling desolation." The insecurity of prop- 
erty in the mines prevented many from seeking 
to settle permanently there. 

In the autumn of 1856, in harmony with the 
spirit of unrest then prevailing, we listened to 
to the voice of the siren, who whispered more gold 
ahead! ahead! and selling our comfortable home 
for half its cost, and disposing of our mines at a 
sacrifice, we moved to Chipps Flat, Sierra Co., 
in the upper Sierras, in the deep snow belt. 
Here we purchased several interests in a min- 
ing ditch — a ditch for the purpose of conveying 
water to the mines. The property was valua- 
ble and the mines flourishing, and settling 
here, we felt that we had invested in something 
that was certain and would bring in a hand- 
some income soon. How vain are human ex- 
pectations ! 

The little hamlet of Chipps Flat was situated 
in the heart of a rich mining district, above the 
deep canon of the Yuba river. The latter part 
of the journey was made on mule back. The 
steep, winding, zigzag trails led doAvn the canon 



94 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

and up again, on tlie ragged edge of perilous 
precipices and over bare ledges of rock, up and 
still up, till the river looked from our towering 
eirie like a silver skein flowing in the dark 
chasm below. A single misstep and we were 
in danger of being hurled hundreds of feet. 
From one point towering far above the little 
hamlet we looked over the grand amphitheatre 
of mountains, rolled back as far as eye could 
reach, and remotely in the distance the gray 
swell of the vast plains bounded by the dim 
outlines of ihe Coast Kange. Through the val- 
ley, distinctly visible, winds the sparkling Sac- 
ramento. On dusk}^ nights in this clear atmos- 
phere, the lights on the river steamers could be 
plainly discerned. From this towering point 
one counted no less tlntn ten mining towns in 
the vicinity. Orleans, Moores and Woolseys 
Flat, Minnesota, Centerville, Alleghaneytown, 
Smiths Flat, Oak Flat, Lafayette Hill, and 
Chipps Flat; all more or less prosperous min- 
ing camps. 

Many tons of rich ore were shipped from 
these localities. Quartz mining and "tunnel- 
ing" were the principal features of industry, 
the busy stamping of the mills was a familiar 
sound. There one enjoyed all the advantages 
of the ' beautiful snow ;' ' it fell almost incess- 
antly during the winter. It attained a depth of 
seven feet in the winter of 1856-57. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 95 

Avalanches or snow slides were of frequent 
occurrence, often resulting seriously to life and 
property. On one occasion my husband and a 
companion were at' work on a " flume" several 
miles from home. The snow had fallen to a 
great depth and hung in masses on the side of 
the mountain. Their attention was arrested by 
hearing a roaring noise, and looking up, they 
saw an immense body of snow from the height 
above descending. For my husband to spring 
into the flume and lie down, was but the work 
of a moment; and after the avalanche had passed, 
he looked around for his companion. Fcr some 
time he was nowhere to be seen — the huge body 
of snow had lodged in the bottom of the canon 
some three hundred feet below; following this 
with his eye, and closely scanning every object, 
he at last saw a human figure sitting at the bot- 
tom of the canon and surrounded by masses of 
snow. To his repeated shouts there was.a faint 
wave of the hand. As speedily as possible, he 
hurried to him and found him bruised and 
bleeding and jammed on the rocks and brush 
over which he had been so rapidly carried. 
Fortunately no bones were broken, and after 
a short time an effort was made to reach home. 
Faint and weak, his companion was scarcely 
able to walk on level ground, but with help, 
and by dint of shoveling a pathway for a few 
steps and resting at intervals, they were at last 



96 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

enabled to reach the bank of the ditch where a 
road was partially broken. It was a long, weary 
and painful march, and after what seemed to 
be an interminable length of time, they reached 
the village. 

Another serious cause of accidents in these 
heavily timbered mountains, was the rolling of 
huge timbers from the mountain tops. Large 
trees were often felled on the mountain sides, 
their limbs used for fuel and their ponderous 
trunks " staked up " and left to rot. As time 
went on, the stakes rolled away, and having 
slipped its fastenings, the tree, agreeable to 
the law of gravitation, descended, and woe to 
the humble cabin that stood in its way. I knew 
a lady who was one day standing in her house 
when all at once she was conscious of a grating, 
rambling sound; before she had time to specu- 
late as to its cause, there was a terrific shock, 
and immediately the whole end of the cabin was 
burst in, and the ponderous body of a tree 
stopped in the centre of the wreck. She was 
left on one side of the kitchen, surrounded by 
mutilated furniture and broken crockery, while 
the huge body of an ancient pine some six feet in 
diameter disputed her exit. In a neighboring 
town I saw at one time the ruins of three cabins 
that were leveled to the ground by the rolling 
of a giant of the forest from the heights above. 
A man and his wife occupied one of the cabins 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 97 

— the lad J was instantly killed, and her hus- 
band badly injured. In one of the other cabins 
a "lone miner" was sleeping, who escaped more 
fortunately. By some means he was thrown to 
the ground, face downwards. As it was a ground 
floor, he had a snug squeeze, but escaped un- 
hurt, leaving the cast of his features in the 
yielding clay. 

Such were some of the peculiarities 
of the higher Sierras. Early one fine 
mnrning in July, I found myself with a party 
of friends en route for that gem of the mountain 
— Sierra Valley, distant about 35 miles. As 
the journey had to be made on horseback, we 
had secured an early start. It was a grand and 
glorious ride ! Thirty-five miles in one day on 
horseback over the winding trails of the Sier- 
ras ! Now speeding through sweet, green vales, 
where the native grasses stand breast high to 
our horses, and crossing crystal streams and 
shadowy rivulets — climbing abrupt and rocky 
ascents, and anon, traversing the bald peak of 
some towering height, over beds of everlasting 
snow, where the force of the sun is powerless 
to melt its solid crystal. Far up in these ele- 
vated solitudes, miles and miles from any hu- 
man habitation, we observed a lone mound, 
and turning aside, halted a moment. It was a 
solitary grave. There was no name on the 
mute head-board, and nothing to furnish a clue 
5 



98 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

to the sad story; but time and neglect and the 
fury of the elements had not obliterated this 
lone, sad trace of the last resting place of a fel- 
low being. "Lost in the snow," perhaps, 
we mused; a not uncommon fate which befel 
many a luckless gold hunter. 

No marble rears its stately head 

To deck thy lonely pillow, 
No proud fame mocks thy humble bed — 

Nor rose, nor weeping willow; 
But may the sigh by strange lips borne, 
Be wafted to thy spirit home. 

The wild winds jDlayed thy dying note — 

The night frowned darkly on thee — 
Cold was the snow, thy funeral robe, 

And stern the blast before thee; 
The night is past, the wind is still, 
Best, x^ilgrim, on this storm-beat hill. 

Thoul't hear no more the cruel blast 

That Destiny threw round thee, 
For Death's dark wing has o'er thee past, 

And stern's the Fate that bound thee, 
And stillness wraps thy silent tomb — 
Where mountain flowers about thee bloom. 

But may the sigh low breathed by her, 

As sad she gazed above thee, 
Ascend into thy radiant sphere; 

For those the friends who loved thee, 
For all must share a lonely grave, 
'Neath deep oblivion's changeless wave. 

The dusky shadows of twilight were fast gath- 
ering over the scene as we commenced the de- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 99 

scent of the mountain that overlooked Sierra 
Valley. Green and beautiful it lay, surrounded 
on all sides by towering mountains; crystal 
streams flowed through its length, and herds of 
cattle fed on the luxuriant grass. Here we 
formed the acquaintance of *' Alice," Mrs. Or- 
delle C. Howk, a warm-hearted and hospitable 
lady, and a writer of those early times, who 
contributed storie.^, sketches, etc., to '^ Hutch- 
ing' s Magazine" and other periodicals. She 
and her husband, with a few other families, 
comprised the few settlers of this romantic and 
sequestered vale. After spending a week in 
recreation and rest, we returned home. 



CHAPTTER. XII. 

A CHANGE OF SCENE — THE "W.ASHOE" EXCITEMENT — THE 
FESTIVE GRASSHOPPEIi — THE EARLY SKTTLER. 

After a few year's residence among the high- 
er Sierras, we became weary of the deep snows 
of winter, the isolation of the locality, etc. , and 
in December of '58, turned our faces valley- 
ward, with the intention of farming. A few 
miles from Marysville we found a suitable lo- 
cation. The rich ri^^er bottoms of tlie Yuba 
that had not then been inundated by the de- 
spoiler "Slickens,'' yielded bountiful returns for 
the toil of the husbandman. All along the 
river were fine farms, with orchards, vineyards 
and grain fields. Many acres of the best land 
had not as yet been touched by a plow. And 
plain lands that could not be irrigated, at that 
day, were not generally thought worth farming. 

Among the most noted orchards was Briggs', 
three miles from Marysville, a large and flour- 
ishing -one. Fruit sold on the ground at 
12J cents per pound, yielding a handsome in- 
come yearly. Alas ! how has the scene changed. 
Over all that smiling and prosperous region — 
over every foot of that rich alluvial soil — over 
orchards and vineyards, and prosperous farms, 
the dreaded "Slickens" has spread devastation 



THE MAECH OF EMPIEE. 101 

and ruin. Where once was beauty and wealth 
and sweet homes, nothing remains but desola- 
tion — everything except the roofs of houses 
and the tops of trees buried in the slimy insin- 
uating yellow debris. The introduction of hy- 
draulic mining brought disaster and ruin to 
much of the richest and best lands of the State 
by flooding them with the yellow washings from 
the mines. 

Up to 1859, very little attempt had been 
made to raise corn in the State — many enter- 
taining the opinion that the soil and climate 
were unsuited for its production, but our corn 
crop that year on bottom land averaged one 
hundred bushels to the acre. In September of 
the same year, we attended the County Fair at 
Marysville, held in the old pavilion and grounds. 
It was a grand success; every branch of indus- 
try being represented, and the products of the 
soil were an interesting feature. It was not 
wanting in evidences of culture and refinement, 
and an interest in the arts and sciences to prove 
the wonderful and rapid march of progress and 
improvement in a young State not yet having 
finished her first decade. 

The Fair was rendered memorable by the 
presence of one of the most noted men oi the 
period — the great and lamented journalist, 
Horace Greeley. He had arrived in (California 
a few weeks previous, having made that sum- 



102 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

mer liis celebrated overland journey by way of 
Ben Holliday's stage line. 

What a deafening tumult of applause greeted 
him as he arose, a plain, farmer-like looking 
man — and made a speech entirely in harmony 
with his appearance. 

The same year was marked by an event 
which cast a gloom over the entire State — 
the political duel which was fought by Judge 
Terry and the Hon. David C. Broderick, in 
which the latter was killed. The affair created 
great excitement and much comment; and as 
a remarkable event has taken its place in his- 
tory. The feelings of the country which were 
aroused over the affair, are still fresh in the 
memories of those who were residents here afc 
that time. 

Towards the close of '59 the discovery of the 
Washoe gold and silver mines created wild ex- 
citement. Nevada, previous to its admission 
as a State, was known as the ' 'Washoe' ' country. 
In keeping with the spirit of adventure, my hus. 
band, being an experienced miner, determined 
to form one of a party bound for the new gold 
region. I therefore concluded to visit during 
his absence my old home in the East; and early 
in i860 I took passage with my two children on 
the steamship Sonora for New York, to remain 
as I then contemplated, a few months, or a 
year at most — but how little we know of the 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 103 

hidden mysteries of tlie future ! How little I 
dreamed that nine long years, with their singular 
changes would pass ere I should set foot on the 
land to whose genial climate and many fascina- 
tions I was strongly wedded! But such are 
life's vicissitudes. Up to this time the first 
ominous whisperings of Civil War had scarcely 
awakened a serious sentiment on the far-off 
Pacific Coast; but I found on my arrival in the 
Eastern States that the threatening news of the 
on-coming storm pervaded every heart, and in 
April of the following year the bugle sounded 
the '* Call to arms.'' 

After the long and eventful journey I reached 
at last the familiar scenes of my early years, 
and once more on board of one of those grand 
and superb floating palaces of the Western 
waters, we were steaming down the queen of 
rivers, the beautiful Ohio. How familiar and 
yet how strangely altered seem the old land- 
marks! Her banks are gemmed with stately 
cities, rich in beauty and wealth, with towns 
and hamlets, with broad plantations and mag- 
nificent residences — the low - lying lands 
are now and then broken by rugged bluffs and 
picturesque and romantic scenery. They seem 
to glide past us like the vision's scene in dream- 
land. Steamboating on the western rivers in 
one of those old-time magnificent steamers was 
a mode of traveling that for comfort and su- 



104 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

preme enjoyment is unsurpassed; but like many 
another custom of " Auld Lang Syne," has 
been superseded by more modern changes. 
How pleasant to pace slowly up and down the 
''hurricane deck" on quiet evenings when the 
sunset rays are gilding the tops of the noble 
trees that droop over the river banks ! And 
not less charming is it to hear on the morning 
air, sang out in ringing tones, "Wood yard ! 
wood yard !" Snatching a shawl if the air is 
cool, we select a seat on the ''guards," and 
while the steamer is gracefully and grandly 
"rounding to," we have ample time to note 
the scene. Vast piles of cord wood flank the 
banks, and a woodman's cottage, low-browed 
and brown, is seen at a distance. Now the boat 
has touched the bank ; a daring deck-h;»nd 
springs ashore, and, with cable in hand, fas- 
tens it securely; the gang j)lank is shoved out, 
and the crew in long array file out to the wood 
yard; and, while they shoulder their burden 
and bear it on board, we listen and catch the 
familiar negro chorus, sung in their peculiar 
melodious intonation. There is brisk work for 
a few moments, the melodious music of mellow 
voices mingling with the clatter attending 
the "wooding up." Then we hear the mate's 
voice, in stern command, "Let go the cable ! 
Haul in the plank !" Then there's a jingling 
of little bells — a puff of steam, the last man 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 105 

springs on board and we have soon left the 
wood yard far behind. 

After lingering in the Middle • and Western 
States for several months, I at last proceed 
on my journey, my final destination being the 
frontier country of Nebraska, then a Territory 
in the first stages of its settlement. Here my 
mother' s family had immigrated during my six 
years' sojourn in California. Scarcely had I 
reached my journey's end before the bugle 
notes of civil war sounded from Fort Sumter, 
and the ' ' call to arms ' ' thrilled every heart, 
and here, as elsewhere, all was excitement, 
commotion and activity — companies were being 
drilled and regiments organized in all the 
'*pomp and circumstance of war." 

The frontier countries, though far removed 
from the seat of war and the vicinity of hostili- 
ties, suffered no little in consequence; the hard 
times caused by the war being felt more acutely 
on the border, for various reasons, than in the 
Middle and Eastern States. All articles im- 
ported to the country commanded exorbitant 
prices, while there was scarcely a market for 
home produce. The means of trans]3ortation 
w^ere meagre and limited. Railroad facili- 
ties to the remote frontier, were scarcely 
dreamed of. During war times many articles 
reached fabulous prices. For illustration: Tea 
was four dollars per pound, coffee seventy-five 
5* 



106 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

cents per pound, calico fifty cents per yard, and 
muslin seventy cents per yard, and all imported 
articles in proportion; and thougli the country 
produced abundantly,the low price paid for home 
products made very distressing times. Corn, 
which was the staple, was ten and fifteen cents 
per bushel, butter eight cents per pound, eggs 
^ye cents per dozen. Add to this the fact that 
Indian depredations and hostilities continually 
threatened the remote settlements, and we have 
a not very attractive picture of the frontier dur- 
ing the years of the war . The country, in it- 
self, was a rich and promising land, whose 
broad, rolling prairies and rich bottom land, 
free to the adventurous settler, offered fine in- 
ducements to those seeking homes on Uncle 
Sam's dominions. 

My mother's farm, situated on the Nemaha 
River, was well out towards the confines of 
civilization, and *' forty miles from any town.'' 
On more than one well-remembered occasion 
the cry of "Indians are coming" was wafted 
to us from the border, and packing our house- 
hold goods in a wagon, and driving our stock 
before us, we turned our backs on the ap- 
proaching foe, and making forced marches, 
sought safety in a more dense settlement. Here 
we consolidated our forces, and having sent out 
a scout to ascertain, if possible, the cause of 
the rumor, awaited the turn of events. The re- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 107 

ports, at one time, at least, proved to be but 
too well founded. Two men of our acquaint- 
ance, settlers, several miles back, liad been 
treacherously murdered at a station on the ' ' big- 
road," cattle had been stolen, and other depre- 
dations committed. The information that we 
received was to the eifect that these two men, 
Messrs. Kelley and Butler were traveling, and 
had stopped at a station, and while there were 
warned by a friendly Indian that a band of In- 
dians were about to attack them. It was not 
long before they made their appearance, and 
Kelley, unarmed, boldly advanced to meet them, 
extending his hand in token of friendship. The 
Indian immediately leveled his rifle, the bullet 
taking effect in Kelley' s breast, who staggered 
to the house, sat down, and soon expired. The 
other Indians ran up and shot Butler, who, 
climbing to the loft, laid down and there died. 
In consequence of this outrage many settlers 
left their homes, their growing crops, and 
everything except a few portable articles, 
and fled in terror from the border, some 
never to return. Most of them, however, 
returned after a time, not without a feel- 
ing of insecurity, lest at any time the 
murderous savages would rise en masse, and 
massacre the few defenseless settlers scattered 
at intervals along the banks of streams, miles 
and miles from where relief could be obtained. 



108 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE, 

Though bands of roving Indians often passed 
through our neighborhood, no serious outbreak 
occurred, and when the war was over and peace 
declared soldiers were again garrisoned on the 
frontier to protect settlers and travelers, and 
once more a feeling of security prevailed. Im- 
migrants came pouring in, and soon the dawn- 
ing of the railroad era accelerated the march of 
civilization. Other causes of minor importance 
also operated against the immigrant of '^ye 
early period," among them being notably the 
festive grasshopper. For years and years they 
came regularly, swarming down upon the luxu- 
riant crops like an "army with banners." Un- 
heralded and uninvited they came, in swarms 
so dense as in some instances to obscure the 
sunlight. If the careful husbandman did not 
immediately begin storing his crops there would 
soon be nothing left but the bare ground to 
tell where but a few hours before had been 
fields of waving corn, golden wheat, vegeta- 
bles, fruit, etc. There was nothing that the 
raj)acity of his nature w^ould not devour — on- 
ions, garlic, tobacco — and having annihilated 
the tobacco crop, they sat in swarms on the 
fences and defiantly spit the tobacco juice in 
the faces of the ravaged farmers. 

Before leaving this subject, I may be par- 
doned for referring to some of the peculiar feat- 
ures and incidents which belong essentially to 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 109 

those early times. The country being sparsely 
timbered, lumber a^ a consequence was scarce, 
and out on the frontier particularly so, and fre- 
quently settlers of limited means built in lieu 
of a house "a dug-out." In connection with 
this style of habitation an itinerant Methodist 
minister met with a ludicrous adventure. In 
traveling in a sparsely settled part of the coun- 
try he lost his bearings, and wandered around 
for some time. At length night came on, black 
and moonless. After a long time he came to 
the bank of a stream, and knew if he followed 
it he would sooner or later reach a settlement. 
With this hope he began hallooing at intervals, 
but could find no habitation. After awhile he 
came to a field of corn and a w^ell-defined road 
that led to a garden. Soon he heard the bark- 
ing of dogs, but no house was visible. Weary 
and hungry and almost in despair, he mounted 
an eminence near by and gave vent to a 
shrill ^'halloo." Scarcely had the sound of 
his voice died away before there bounded 
up at his very feet the figure of a man, shock- 
headed and half - clothed, who inquired in 
dismay, ''What on earth is the matter?" 
'' Why, huUoo, where do you live ?' ' said the 
traveler. "Why, I live at home down here. 
''Where do you live, and what do you want, 
and who are you?" "B'gosh I thought I 
was surrounded by a band of injuns." Ex- 



110 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

planations followed, and when ''tlie settler" 
found that he merely had an inopportune call 
from a traveling divine he opened the door 
of his subterranean dwelling and hospitably en- 
tertained him. In relating it, the minister 
naively remarked: "I supose in my wanderings 
that night, I walked over several large and 
flourishing settlements." 

More than a passing reference is due to the 
earh^ settler of the border States, who belongs 
to that hardy and adventurous class that hew 
the road for civilization. With his worldly 
effects in a rickety wagon, covered with a bed- 
quilt and drawn by a pair of oxen, and with a 
small drove of cattle following, driven by a 
boy on a thin-legged pony, he with his fam- 
ily and little cavalcade penetrated the heart 
of the wilderness, and staking off a claim in this 
raw world, prepared to '' make improvements;" 
that is, to build a cabin and break a corn- 
patch. One cannot contemplate his character 
without feeling for it the most profound admir- 
ation and respect. It was his to bare his val- 
iant breast in the very van of advancing civiliza- 
tion; through his tattered rags the lonesome 
blizzards of the unpeopled prairies swept with 
reckless energy. His unshod and barnacled 
feet were exposed alike to the nipping frosts of 
early spring and the burning trails of summer 
saunterings, and upon his superanuated coon- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. Ill 

skin cap the merciless elements descended. 
He had come to the country in the dawn of 
•adversity, and, having spent the best years of 
his manhood, was growing old and gray under 
the snows of many winters, and warped and 
bent by "hard times" and summer suns, and 
when I saw him last was still lingering on the 
'^ ragged edge " of hope — longing for the tardy 
van of civilization to cast its wave of better 
fortune at his feet. 

The prevailing mode employed by the aver- 
age writer in describing the early settler and 
the pioneer is to invest him with a character 
ignorant, uncultured and boorish; something- 
after the following style : " Stopping in front 
of a rude, log hut, we uttered a shrill halloo ! 
At the sound of our voice a tall, gaunt, lan- 
tern-jawed individual made his appearance 
and, with mouth open, viewed us with evi- 
dent curiosity. In answer to our 'good day,' 
he said : 'Wall, stranger. How d'y'edo? Won't 
ye light ? ' * No, thank you. Can you tell me 
if I am on the right road to B. ? ' '' Sartain, 
stranger, sartain. You jest keep right straight 
ahead, an' you'll git thar.'^' Such is merely an 
overdrawn and exaggerated picture, for one is 
often surprised to find in these far frontier set- 
tlements the smallest and humblest abode being 
the homes of the educated, the refined and cul- 
tured, and almost invariably men of vim, enter- 



112 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

prise and daring. In this instance tliey had 
immigrated here years before, and anticipated 
securing homes and advancing and prospering 
with the growth and development of the conn- 
try, but tiie long years of the Civil War and 
local causes had lain a paralyzing hand for the 
time being on progress and improvement. Since 
the removal of these causes what a picture is 
here presented ! Through all that country that 
was then an unsettled wilderness — the haunt of 
the hungry wolf, the cayote, the elk, antelope 
and buffalo — where still w^ere seen the scattered 
remnants of the wigwam of the lone Indian, 
there have risen on their hunting-grounds and 
battle-grounds flourishing towns and pleasant 
villages. A network of railways cross and in- 
tersect each other, and along their route and 
on the vast prairies are fields of corn and wheat 
and comfortable farm houses, and verily, here 
has the *' March of Empire" left the imprint of 
its shining footsteps ! 



CHAPTKR XIII. 

to colorado — across the plains — fort cottonwood — 
attacked by indians —a water spout, or cloud burst 
— pike's and long's peaks. 

To those who had spent years in the genial 
climate of California, the rigorous Avinters, Avith 
their continuous snoAv- storms, and the tardy 
springs of Nebraska Avas a serious objection, 
and as my husband had returned to the East, 
Ave, Avith an unconquerable desire to dAvell again 
in the land of the pine, the fig and the orange, 
started for California * 'across the plains," Avitli 
ox-teams, in the spring of 1864. We joined a 
small party of friends from our immediate neigh- 
borhood, Avhose destination Avas Colorado. A 
short time previous to this* the discovery of 
gold and silver mines at Pike's Peak had cre- 
ated a Avild excitement, and as this Avas before 
the era of railroads in that region, the ' ' Big 
Road" from the Missouri River Avas croAvded 
A\dth long trains of Avagons, some bound for 
Denver, then a thriving toAvn, and others for 
points still farther Avest. There Avas also a 
large emigration that year to the Pacific Coast. 
The Avar had caused an unsettled state of 'soci- 
ety, and many sought homes in those more 
quiet and peaceful countries. The emigrants 



114 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

of tliat time not only suffered the exposures, 
inconveniences and hardships incident to such 
a journey, but were momentarily in danger of 
being attacked by hordes of wild savages, 
through whose lands they passed. 

We had not proceeded far on our journey be- 
fore rumors of attacks from Indians in advance 
of us caused some anxiety. Our journey lay 
along the Platte Eiver, and, as far as the eye 
could reach, it took in miles and miles of level 
land, green in the month of May, and skirted 
by hills and abrupt bluffs. These plains were 
the home of the wild cactus, and in many places 
their showy flowers beautified the lone, desert- 
ed landscape. At intervals of many miles, the 
dreariness of the long level road, the distant 
hills and capricious river, was broken by sight 
of a rude hut, inhabited by "a bold pioneer," 
one of those daring and adventurous spirits 
who recognize no such word as fear. The hut 
was usually built of sod, the sod of the plain 
cut in uniform shape and dried and put to- 
gether after the manner of brick. It was the 
only available material for building purposes, 
and, built layer upon layer, offered a stout de- 
fense against the attacks of the wary and watch- 
ful foe. It was not infrequently the case that 
"the bold pioneer" made friends with the In- 
dians by taking a wife from one of the most 
powerful tribes. Besides being a "stage sta- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 115 

tion" for the regular overland stage, lie carried 
on a brisk traffic with the Indians and white 
hunters and trappers in furs, hides and pelts, 
giving in exchange blankets, beads, etc., and 
alivays ivhisJcy, which latter found innumerable 
customers among the endless throng of thirsty 
emigrants. 

We passed the pretty and picturesque Fort 
Cottonwood, the fortifications and buildings 
being built mostly of hewn cedar. The bluffs 
and canons beyond the fort contained vast quan- 
tities of this beautiful timber. The fort was 
garrisoned by a small detachment of soldiers 
for the purpose of protecting travel and guard- 
ing the frontier. The overland stage at each 
station was provided with an escort of soldiers, 
who accompanied it from one station to an- 
other. It was not an uncommon occurrence 
for the soldiers in those journeys to be "picked 
off" or "taken in a surround'' by the vigilant 
and ever wary foe; but it was a rare thing that 
an Indian was captured, dead or alive. A story 
was related of an Indian being captured the 
summer before, and, after being duly and very 
much scalped, was buried in a shallow grave. 
A squad of soldiers traveling that way were 
told of the achievement. Doubtful of its truth, 
they demanded to see the remains, and, on re- 
pairing to the spot, they unearthed the body 
and scalping it again, bore away the ghastly 
trophies in exultation. 



116 THE MAECH OF EMPIKE. 

On such a journey as that of crossing the 
plains, one grows weary of the unvarying mo- 
notony, the long clays in the wagon, with its 
ceaseless creaking, and if with ox teams, the 
slow plodding of the oxen, the very voice of 
the driver, with his occasional, and scarcely 
necessary, ''gee, gee. Brandy!" " haw. Buck, 
haw!" There is the long yellow road stretch- 
ing for miles before us, the green sweep of 
plain, and the sombre hills flanking our left, 
while to the right runs (does it?) yes, some- 
times, that questionable and doubtful river, 
the Platte. However, one of a sunny tempera- 
ment, and fully determined, might contrive, on 
such a journey, to experience a degree of pleas- 
antness, especially if in a large train, and with 
a jovial company. If a halt was ordered early, 
there was ample time for supper, the savory 
out-of-door odor of the cooking, gathering of 
the "buffalo chips," — (does' t it seem like an 
age since we crossed the plains?) — and after 
supper we restfully reclined on our blankets on 
ths grass while the patriarchs, fearlessly and 
enjoyably smoked their pipes, and speculated 
on the new land to which we were journeying, 
the progress of the war, and' its probable re- 
sult; w^e, awed and made silent by the vastness 
of the untenanted dominions, looked around, 
saw the sunset fade away, the blue of the sky 
grow deeper, and the stars slowly shed their 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 117 

luster over the darkening earth. Among the 
fun-loving and less thoughtful at such times, 
the jest and song went round, and the sound of 
laughter and mirth penetrated the gloom and 
floated out and was lost in the grim darkness. 

During the 3^ears of the civil war there was a 
heavy emigration across the plains from the 
south, and though many of them hated the 
' * brave old flag, ' ' they were glad to seek peace 
and protection under its folds in the prosper- 
ous countries of the Pacific Coast. We chanced 
to camp one evening in close proximity to a 
large train of Southerners. It was near a sta- 
tion, and the stage having arrived there a short 
time before^ brought the latest war news, which 
was in substance that a victory had been gained 
by some of the rebel forces. There was great 
rejoicing -that night in the neighboring camp, 
and "Hurrah for oioa side!" rang upon the air 
in lusty chorus. 

Rumors of trains attacked by Indians reached 
us from time to time, and one day a band of 
painted Avarriors, hundreds in number, passed 
us. Two large powerfully built warriors, in all 
the glory of red paint, buckskin, beads, feath- 
ers, dignity and general magnificence, conde- 
scended to honor our humble camj^ with a 
call — a call long enough to eat up and devour 
everything we had cooked, that being an im- 
mense pot of beans and bacon, an astonishing 



118 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

amount of bread, a half bushel of cookies, 
about four pounds of crackers, cold potatoes, 
pickles, "and setery," too numerous to men- 
tion. We were glad when they left; we felt 
relieved, and we tvere relieved. Though they 
\\ ent away without paying their bill, we w^re 
glad when they departed and have scarcely 
ceased rejoicing yet. Had they continued to 
devour everything eatable an hour longer, with 
the same avidity as they did during those mem- 
orable fifteen minutes, not a soul in our camp 
would have been alive to-day to tell the tale. 
Though we suffered no personal attack, we 
afterwards learned that ' ' the war had actually 
begun; " before us and behind us the murder- 
ous savages were committing their diabolical 
deeds. 

I subsequently became acquainted with a 
lady who that same year crossed the plains, 
reaching Denver two weeks in advance of us. 
Their train was attacked by Indians, some of 
their number being killed; fortunately, she and 
her family escaped. Their party was a small 
one, consisting of their two wagons, in charge 
of her husband and brother, and two wagons 
loaded with merchandise, in charge of a man 
and his son. One day, while traveling along 
as usual without any thought of danger, her 
brother, whose wagon was just behind the one 
she occupied, stepped up to her wagon and got 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 119 

his rifle. She noticed the action and asked 
what was the matter ? ''Nothing, I hope," he 
replied, ' ' only I don't like the looks of those 
dark objects just above the bluffs there. ' ' Look- 
ing in the direction he indicated she saw on the 
verge of the hills, some distance, away, numer- 
ous dark objects, mere specks, outlined against 
the horizon. Scarcely had he ceased speaking, 
when up on the top of the hill there appeared 
in plain view a band of mounted warriors, and 
the next moment, swift as a shower of arrows, 
they swept down upon the little train. Her 
brother stood ready with his gun, but, circling 
past, they dashed on to the rear wagons, which 
contained merchandise. There they soon dis- 
patched the drivers, killing both instantly; and 
unharnessing the mules, proceeded to load them 
with the contents of the wagons, which was flour, 
sugar, meat, etc. After plundering the wagons 
they mounted their ponies and, driving the 
mules before them, slowly trotted off over the 
bluffs. 

When within about one hundred miles of 
Denver, we were witnesses of one of the most 
terrible rain and hail storms that ever visited 
the Platte region. It was a water sj^out or 
cloud burst. We afterwards ascertained that 
we were on the verge of the storm. As the rain 
and hail began to descend, we halted our wag- 
ons, and looking westward saw a black cloud 



120 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

resembling a horn of plenty emptying its con- 
tents in a fearful deluge. Hail stones of 
enormous size fell, striking with great force 
our dumb, unsheltered animals, and the vivid 
sheet lightning played with continuous glare 
on the covers -of our wagons as though the ele- 
ments were ablaze. After the storm was over, 
and we resumed our journey, we found some 
immense hail stones, one by actual measure- 
ment, was nearly three inches in diameter. We 
were not aware of the extent of the damage 
done by the storm, until, on reaching Denver, 
nearly two weeks after. We then learned that 
the water spout had emptied its contents on a 
poition of the city and vicinity, that the loss of 
property, of houses, fences and stock was enor- 
mous, and the loss of life considerable. Such 
was the force of the rain, that stock herders in 
the hills had scarcely time to reach a shelter? 
and in some instances were drowned; liouses 
were floated off and wrecked. Cherry Creek 
was full of the debris, dismantled and half -sub- 
merged buildings — drowned stock, fences, etc. 
Before arriving in Denver, we found that 
our teams were in such a condition as to be un- 
lit to travel much farther; add to this the fact that 
the whole Indian country was aroused and arm- 
ing against the whites, induced us to stop in Colo- 
rado, intending to stay during the winter and 
resume our journey to the Pacific Coast the fol- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 121 

lowing spring. As we n eared our journey's 
end, tlie snow-tipped summits of Pike's and 
Long's Peaks in the Eocky Mountain range, 
each day became more distinct. Hidden from 
view by a roll of hills, and lying at the base of 
the mountains, was the active and growing 
town of Denver.* We had decided, however, 
to proceed to the mines, and chose the vicinity 
of Black Hawk, Central City and Nevada as our 
place of destination. These three mining 
towns were forty miles from Denver, and lo- 
cated consecutively in a gulch. Camping for a 
short time in the verge of the city, it was pleasant 
to look once more upon the bright, attractive 
homes of civilization — hear the busy hum and 
stir of modern improvement, and feel the secu- 
rity and friendship that a settlement of our 
countrymen and kindred afforded. 

Our rest was brief, and once more on the 
march, we soon enter the hill country. Our 
road lies through the pretty town of Golden 
City, an infant village merely. The country 
around it is broken — the miniature valleys 
abounding in grain ranches, stock ranches, etc, 
Ere long we penetrate the fastnesses of the 
"Rockies." I had been familiar with the 
kindly grandeur and sublime beauty of the Si- 
erras, but what a contrast was here presented ! 
For miles and miles our road led through deep, 
dark canons walled on either side by solid rock, 
6 



122 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

steep and perpendicular. Stunted pines and 
scant vegetation at times varied the barren 
scenery, and a clear stream flowed tlirougli the 
length of the canon, along the banks of which 
many varieties of beautiful flowers hitherto un- 
known to me, bloomed in great profusion. 

We soon found that Colorado differed from 
California in many respects. The mines, which 
were gold and silver quartz mostly, were owned 
generally by Eastern capitalists. The climate 
was severe and rigorous — subject to violent 
wind and snow storms, and intense cold. In 
certain seasons the wind howled and shrieked 
up and down the gulches and across the barren 
rocky ridges in furious blasts, often filling the 
air with the fine ' ' tailings ' ' or dust from the 
mines, and chips, bits of wood and pebbles would 
come clattering against the window^s and sides of 
the houses, creating a perfect pandemonium. All 
articles of consumption — all supplies were trans- 
ported across the plains, a distance of 600 miles, 
in wagons. During the winter, with every 
slight fall of snow, all articles of food advanced 
in price, especially such heavy articles as flour, 
meat, potatoes, etc. Flour at one time was $16 
per sack; beef, 50 cents per pound; potatoes, 
25 cents per pound, and all heavy articles in 
proportion. Vegetables of all kinds were very 
scarce and commanded a high jirice. Canned 
goods were the principal de]3endence. Color- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 123 

ado at tliat time was badly *'grasslioppered," 
and for years and years was a sufferer from tliis 
merciless marauder. Tliis was tlie prime cause 
of tlie liigli price of vegetables and home pro- 
duce. ^Tlie years of the civil war were per- 
haps the darkest in the history of Colorado 
since its settlement by the whites. Her means 
for conveying supplies were meagre and limited, 
and through a country that was swarming with 
liostile foes. Her forts were poorly garrisoned 
and the Indians roving on her vast plains com- 
mitted unchecked depredations and outrages on 
the defenseless inhabitants. 

At last the long and severe winter drew 
to a close, and with the advent of spring, 
balmy winds and soft sunshine, and beauti- 
ful flowers, the glad beanrs of peace illumi- 
nated the land. News of the fall of Kich- 
mond was telegraphed through the rocky wilds 
of this struggling, new country. Even in the 
heart of this wilderness the fires of patriotism 
burned fervently in the bosom of every loyal 
citizen, and great was the rejoicing when the 
noAvs was received. Business of all kinds was 
suspended; miners came from the underground 
works and exchanged their mud begrimed suits 
for holiday attire. Quartz-mills were "shut 
down" and mining camps deserted, while towns 
and hamlets were decorated with banners and 
flags and every symbol of universal rejoicing. 



l%4z THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

At niglit the mountains were ablaze Avitli illumi- 
nations, torcliligiit processions, bonfires, etc., 
and the steady booming of anvil and cannon 
reverberating through the fastnesses of the 
mountains proclaimed the dawn of peace. 

Alas ! how sudden is often the transition from 
jov to sorrow. Scarcely had the echoes of the 
cannon died away among the resounding peaks 
and rocky canons, when closely following in the 
path of these great victories there came the 
mournful tidings of the assassination of Presi- 
dent Lincoln — he Avho was alike tiie friend of 
the South as of the North. It seemed as though 
the pulse of the nation had ceased to beat. 
''The thunderbolt had fallen to the hearth," 
and the whole country put on the badge of 
mourning. 

"He was our standard bearer — lie 
Can gilt up the thread of destiny 
And round the breaking Union bound 
And wove it firmly. 

The hand that signed the act of grace 
Which freed a wronged and tortured race." 

Again was business suspended, but from a 
far different cause, and instead of the loud 
booming of cannon there was an ominous 
silence — a silence fraught with dark forebod- 
ings. Each one felt he had lost a personal 
friend. 



STILL ON THE WING — THE SUNSET LAND — A RAILROAD ACROSS 
THE CONTINENT. 

Ill June, 18G5, my liusbaucl joined a party 
wliicli Avas formed for tlie purpose of prospect- 
ing for mines in the interior. He therefore 
determined to send liis family "back East," 
and I once more found myself in company witli 
a small party of returning emigrants, with our 
faces turned toward the land of the rising sun. 
Indian hostilities continued, and the Governor 
of the Territory had. shortly before issued or- 
ders that all trains should travel tAventy-five or 
more in a company. As soon as possible we 
joined with another train, and each night 
on going into camp formed the wagons into a 
corral and a guard was kept during the night; 
each man and woman carried weapons ready 
for defense. About sunset one day, we passed 
the ruins of the old American Hanch where a 
feAv months before a provision train of 80 wag- 
ons had been captured by the Indians, their 
drivers who did not escape by flight, were either 
killed or taken prisoners. After pillaging the 
wagons and taking what they desired, they 
burned the remainder; the ground was strewn 
with wagon tires, hubs and odd bits of iron. 



126 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

It was said fcliat during tlie attack two Indians 
liad been killed, and tlieir bodies left in tlie 
ruins of the old sod liut. We camped about 
two miles below tlie ruins, and two women 
belonging to tlie train, accompanied by several 
men, Avalked back tliat evening in order to see 
tlie carcasses of the dried up and "very dead 
braves." In describing them, tliey said that 
instead of decomposing, they merely dried up, 
their skin adhering to the bone and their hands 
and feet resembling claws. What horrible fas- 
cination induced them to walk those four long 
miles in order to feast their gaze on this re- 
volting spectacle, I was unable to understand; 
as for myself, thoroughly wearied with life in 
the wilderness, I would gladly have traveled 
as far again to avoid their vicinity. 

Being near the scene of recent murder and 
outrage, our little camp redoubled its watch- 
fulness. Four men stood guard that night, 
and long after the hour of retiring, I laid 
awake thinking and looking at the stars through 
the window in my wagon — I could not sleep. 
The night was chilly, and a fire smoked and 
blazed near my wagon, around which the watch- 
ful and alert guard at times sat and talked. 
The conversation naturally, under the circum- 
stances, centred on Indian stories, ladian at- 
tacks, crossing the plains, etc., and as the night 
wore on they grew more and more eloquent — it 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 127 

seemed to me tliey were gifted witli an mofid elo- 
quence on that particular subject. Now and 
tlien one of the guards stole from the little 
group and patroled the camp. About midnight 
one of them came in and remarked : "I'm blest 
boys if I ain't afraid there's suthin skulkin' 
among the horses." A hasty look at their 
trusty rifles, and the four men started away to 
reconnoitre. I arose and looked out, wondered 
what I should do in case of an attack. Exam- 
ined my pistol and saw it was loaded, looked 
at the form of a lady who occupied the wagon 
with me, and at the peaceful faces of my little 
children all quiet and undisturbed in slumber — 
sat and listened, and after what seemed to be 
an interminable length of time, the four men 
came back and quietly resumed their places by 
the fire. "Well," remarked a tall, saffron-col- 
ored, sandy whiskered fellow, " danged ef I 
didn't think I seed a hoss agoin acrost to the 
bluffs jest after we got out thar." " O dry up,'' 
came in reply; "we've got nervous tellin' our 
Injun yarns — but I say, Bill, sposin' we wus at- 
tacked, what ivould you do?" Bill, thus ap- 
pealed to, straightened himself up and replied: 
^' Do? Bj jingo I'd fight if I got cornered and 
had to, but I'd run if I could." Though the 
time, place and circumstances were little calcu- 
lated to inspire mirth, I could not repress a smile 
at the simple frankness of Bill's reply, and 



128 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

though one might not give him credit for re- 
markable daring, we were prone to trust his ve- 
racity i — however, such frequently display most 
courage when it is most needed. One of the 
world's greatest generals once remarked when 
he saw an ashen-faced man marching up to a 
battery, " There goes a good soldier; give me 
a man who knows his danger and faces it with- 
out flinching. " Bill certainly possessed one of 
these requisites — he seemed to comprehend 
thoroughly his danger. Needless to say there 
was little sleep for me that night, and it Avas 
with a feeling of relief and gratitude that I 
watched the slow approach of day, the indis- 
tinct streaks of the gray dawn, heard the first 
noisy stir of camp life, and saw the sun rise 
large and yellow, flooding the long stretches of 
tawny plains — and our hasty breakfasts being 
soon dispatched, our Avagons slowly moved into 
line and stretched out on the long, dusty road. 
We met one day a long train of Mormon pros- 
elytes bound for the kingdom of the ' ' Latter 
Day Saints." Poor, ignorant and dirty — they 
seemed to be the dregs of some foreign country. 
As wagon after w^agon rolled past us, and 
groups of men,women and children, barefooted, 
toiled on in the sand, numbers of our train sa- 
luted them with " I say, you're going the wrong 
way !" " Hallo there ! better turn back old 
man!" and the like; but with their faces turned 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 129 

Zionward, and the toes of tlieir feet pointing 
toward the City of the Saints, they heeded not 
the scoffs and sneers of the nnbelievers, and 
turning neither to the right nor to the left, kept 
stolidly on their way In direct contrast was a 
train of returnino; Mormons with wdiom we 
camped occasionally. They had escaped the 
terrors of the law and the ^'Avenging Angels," 
and after a residence of years in Zion, at last 
were going home. They conversed but little on 
the subject of Mormonism, but if one might 
judge from a casual observation, their souls 
seemed tojiave been steeped in the waters of 
Marah; the slightest reference made to the sub- 
ject from time to time, convinced us that it 
stirred up a flood of painful and unpleasant 
recollections. There was one woman particu- 
larly whom I shall never forget — she had re- 
sided there fifteen years, and without doubt had 
had her share of bitter experience. Her face, 
her speech and very manner impressed us ^s 
one who had drank deeply of bitter waters. 

With feelings of heartfelt gratitude for our 
safe journey, we entered the confines of civili- 
zation. A few" months later my husband, joined 
us, and locating in the town of B., on the Mis- 
souri River, we engaged in the photographing 
business. This section of the country is one 
of the most -fertile and attractive portions of 
the State. The soil is rich and capable of pro- 
6^ 



130 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

duciiig all kinds of fruits, vegetables, cereals, 
etc., peculiar to this latitude. The country is 
beautiful, abounding in rolling hills, bluffs and 
prairies. The hills are covered with a dense 
growth of timber, and the rich dark woods 
abound in nuts of various kinds — hickory nuts, 
walnuts and hazel nuts; and along the streams 
are found wild plums in great profusion, and 
equaling the finest cultivated plum in delicacy 
of flavor — wild strawberries are also abundant, 
and gooseberries, etc. Notwithstanding the 
many attractions that surrounded us in this new 
home, our faithful hearts, which could not forget, 
were prone to turn in restless yearning to the 
land of the setting sun. Agreeable to the im- 
pulse, in November, 1869, we found ourselves 
once more westward bound, this time on the 
Transcontinental Eailway. 

THE SUNSET LAND. 

Ah! many a morn when the earth is fair 

And the lark's wikl song rings clear — 
Sweet visions steal through the empty air, 
Away from the finished years — 
O, had I the wings 
Of the bird that sings — 
I would speed o'er the trackless main, 
Where lingeringly 
By the sunset sea, 
Those years I'd woo again. 

And many an eve when the sky is bright, 
And the heavens are deejily blue, 



THE MABCH OF EMPIRE. 131 

And the wind swims up with a winsome light, 
And the stars shine brightly through — 

I dreamily 

Call back to me 
A land on the sunset shore, 

Where wave dark pines 

Over hidden mines, 
My feet hath pressed of yore. 

Where the golden oriole plumed his wing, 

And the huntsman's horn was heard, 

And the streamlet's voice in its wandering 

Was free as the x^roud, bright bird — 

On the mountain's crest 

In the far-off West 
Was mj^ home of the cherished x^ast, 

Where swift and sweet 

Beneath my feet, 
Life's flowers were thickly cast. 

The flowers have dropped from youth's fair shrine, 

And the years will return no more, 
Bnt the fragrant breath of the murmuring wind 
Blows soft from that sunlit shore — 

And phantoms fair 

Through the viewless air, 
Oppress me with regret, 

Sweet pictures come 

From lips now dumb, 
Whose words I never can forget. 

O, linger, winds ! of the far-ofl" land, 

And voices of buried times, 
And blow ye waves from the golden strand. 
With the murmuring song of the pine, 

For unto me, 

Thy song shall be 
A rhythm with memories rife— 

Whose melody 

Shall cling to me 
To the sunset shores of life. 



132 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

A railroad across the continent, wliicli has 
been a reality over sixteen years, is now scarce- 
ly considered an achievement of more than ordi- 
nary interest, and like the transatlantic subma- 
rine cable, hardly awakens at this time more 
than a passing thought. But a quarter of a 
century ago those who entertained the theory as 
at all practicable Avere looked upon as mere en- 
thusiastic visionaries. I remember when, at 
one time, I ventured to timidly predict that I 
should see the day — nay, fervently hoped to cross 
the continent by rcdlway, my earnest remark was 
laughed to scorn, and I was doubtless consid- 
ered an unreasoning visionary. There was at 
that time such a theory — but a theory which 
then seemed as impalpable and improbable as 
does, at the present, ' ' Symmes' theory of the 
North Pole," and though it had its earnest 
supporters, the undertaking, so gigantic and 
full of peril, so difficult, and requiring such an 
enormous outlay of capital, was looked upon as 
an event which, if ever accomplished, would 
belong to the dim and remote future; one, per- 
haps, that our great-grand-children might pos- 
sibly live to see, but which was beyond the 
pale of our destiny. But since that time what 
grand and glorious achievements have the fruit- 
ful years unfolded. From a prominent journal 
we quote : "At present there are seven over- 
land railroads, either completed or in progress, 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 133 

to reach the Pacific O.cean; embracing four 
systems — the Central and Union Pacific, the 
new Atlantic and Pacific route, the Texas Pa- 
cific and Southern Pacific. The Denver and 
Eio Grande is pushing for this Coast, and the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul railroad, 
which proposes to extend its line from Dacota 
to Pacific Ocean. The last spike was but a 
few we.eks ago driven in the Northern Pacific 
and Canadian Pacific. Then there are two 
Mexican roads, which will soon span the Mexi- 
can portion of the continent, besides two ship 
canals projected." 



CHAPTKR XV. 

ECHO CANYON, THE BEADTIFCTL — DEVIL's GATE— THE HUMBOLDT 
DESERT— THE MAIDEN'S GRAVE. 

Novemhrr 15th — A drizzling rain and lowering- 
sky hovered above our departure. Tlie ride to 
tlie station, distant some four miles, was un- 
comfortable in the extreme, but once on the 
train, we are fairly started. By six o'clock the 
same day we took the 'bus for the Council 
Bluffs depot for Omaha — just one hour too late 
for the westward bound train, and perforce must 
wait another day. 

November Idth — At four o' clock we take a 'bus 
for the depot, and through mud and mire un- 
limited go slashing and splashing till at last we 
are set down at the depot, where, with many 
other impatient emigrants, we wait two mortal 
hours, then we hear a shriek, a puff", and the 
monster is gliding abreast the platform. Then 
"there is hurrying to and fro" — O, what a 
gathering of bundles and baskets, overcoats, 
lap-dogs, babies, guns! — everything portable — 
and what a rush, lest you may be left or be 
without a seat! As those things are items wor- 
thy of consideration, we join the general melee, 
and start for the cars. My husband takes the 



THE MARCH OP EMPIRE. 135 

lead, bearing tlie provision trunk and slirub- 
box, while Ernest follows Avitli a huge roll of 
blankets and a gun. Walter supports his gun 
and carpet sack triumphantly, and May and I 
are left to bring up the rear with the two little 
children and the two baskets, which we do right 
nobly. Some little distance has to be traversed, 
over railroad tracks and around freighted cars — 
and of all the funny sights ! I haven' t seen any- 
thing to equal it since I "crossed the Isthmus" in 
'54. Each man, woman and child loaded with 
their respective bundles , and all in a hurry ! I got 
to laughing so that I was unable to get into the 
car; but, thanks to a gentleman, was assisted 
in. These are the second-class cars — $60 per 
ticket — and we carry our own provisions, which 
is no small item, as we are told that this will be 
our home for eight or ten days. So we smooth 
down our feathers and settle down quite com- 
fortably, occupying as many seats as "the law 
allows us," for we are thinking of eight or ten 
nights when we shall have to improvise beds of 
the seats and our blankets. We throw aside all 
reserve and conventionalism, and are soon in 
friendly converse with several of our fellow-pas- 
sengers. Some five or six ladies are in "our 
car" — intelligent, lively and sensible; while the 
gentlemen are agreeable and polite — slio! says 
conscience, as though the gentlemen were not 
everywhere agreeable and polite. 



13G THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

Soon the engine shrieks a final farewell 
through the gloom, and we realize that we are 
indeed on the grand continental railway, bound 
for the Pacific Coast (the third time) — th?it we 
have left friends and old associations — and, 
heedless of the din and clatter, the merry talk, 
the jokes and confusion, w^e find ourselves prone 
to indulge in tender recollections, but this must 
be put aside, for we have not yet had time for 
supper. So now, that we are fairly under way, 
the dinner baskets must be discussed. When 
bed time arrives, the car is crowded. Each 
person seeks to get himself into such a position 
as will be most likely to woo the drowsy god. 
Looking down the car, I notice that hats, boots 
and waterfalls occupy the most conspicuous po- 
sitions, though many from choice — "Hobson's 
choice" — have taken a sitting position to secure 
a nap. Not much sleep visits our eyelids the 
first night, having occasionally been awakened 
by the jokes of the "boys "who were so un- 
fortunate as to linve given up their seats to the 
ladies. I feel a profound solicitude for those 
poor fellows, w^lio to all appearances are doom- 
ed for eight or ten consecutive nights to vary 
the monotony of restless wanderings through 
the aisle with "roosting" on the backs of seats; 
but the way of the emigrant is hard, and the 
"wee sma' hours" of niglit are kept noisy by 
sleepy jokes. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 137 

Novembtr 17th — We look out and see the long 
level stretch of Platte bottom. Certainly so 
far this is one of the mo^t favorable railway 
routes in the world — almost a dead level, from 
the Missouri to the mountains. We are getting 
on finely — a nice, warm car, soft cushioned 
seats, good lights, good fires and plenty of wa- 
ter, though not very good. Conductor keeps 
clear and we're "masters of the situation." 

November IStJi — Cheyenne — A pretty little 
town, 516 miles from Omaha. No end to ho- 
tels, eating saloons, drinking saloons, etc., 
while in the distance I saw some two or three 
neat and beautiful churches. It is a town of 
two or three years' growth, containing several 
thousajid inhabitants. It is perfectly surpris- 
ing! Situated in the heart of the wilderness — 
hundreds of miles from civilization — a young- 
city blessed with neat churches, schools, busi- 
ness houses and pretty residences, etc. Yerily 
to hear is to doubt, but to see is to believe. 

"I hear the tramp, the mighty tread 
Of nations yet to be — 
The first low wash of waves where soon 
Shall roll a human sea." 

And seeing the march of civilization in this 
young city of the wildnerness, we hear the voice 
of the mighty waves of emigration beating and 
surging against its rocky strongholds. 



138 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

At Antelope a second storm overtook us. It 
blew in wild gusts and eventuated in a snow 
storm. The snow is now three or four inches 
deep but the afternoon sun is shining warm and 
radiantly. We are now on the eighteen-mile 
grade, said to be the most dangerous grade on 
the whole route. Every ten miles, "more or 
loss," as the lawyers say, we pass a station 
house where a man is constantly employed to in- 
spect ten miles of the road and keep it in order. 
They are scattering human habitations — the dis- 
tant outposts of civilization. 

November 19th. — Carefully and slowly last 
night we came up the long grade which termi- 
nated at Sherman — the summit — the highest 
point on the route, reaching an altitude of 8,000 
feet above sea level. And now for the down- 
grade, steeper than the up-hill. I have never 
experienced a more exciting ride. It is fear- 
fully sul)lime! We skim the ground — we fly! 
We ily through strips of seemingly level plain, 
through deep cuts whose frowning and over- 
hanging rocks project directly above us. It is 
a lovely moonlight night, rendered still more 
beautiful by the ground being covered with 
snow. Through all this long, swift ride I held 
mj baby fast gathered in my arms. What if 
some overhanging, treacherous rock had slipped 
its fastening and rolled upon the track? What 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 139 

if — a thousand tilings. Away ! I will not dream 
of these. God's hand that stilled the tempest 
is with us as the iron horse with its precious 
freight thunders across the Rocky Mountains. 
What a sense of relief I experience when the 
long twenty-mile grade is past; a grade of 
eighty feet to the mile. We draw a long breath, 
for we have passed some frightful places dui- 
ing the fearful ride. At one time the train 
stopped in the middle of a rocky ridge, on 
either side of which was a deep, yawning chasm. 
Now and then the engine started with a jerk, 
then backed again, still keeping us in this un- 
comfortable position, while the storm without 
howling and surging and thundering against 
the cars, rocked us as in a cradle, suggesting 
terrible thoughts. But at last we passed safely 
over the frightful causeway. We have passed 
Laramie, a very nice little town, besides many 
other little stations of lesser importance. 

We can scarcely believe that we are in the 
Mountains, for around us on either side are 
smooth, unbroken plains as if designed by na- 
ture for the path of the iron horse. Afar, on the 
left, the deep blue swell of the Wind River 
mountains is plainly visible. It is clear and 
beautiful, though rather cold weather to-day, 
and the clouds are hurled back against the 
horizon. We go on at a good swinging pace; 
expect soon to be in Promontory. Our jour- 



140 THE MAKCH OF EMPIKE. 

iiey lias been enlivened by herds of deer, ante- 
lope, and elk, also badgers and wolves — no 
buffaloes. The song of bird is seldom heard 
along the tarack. 

November 20 — A most lovely day. The pet 
canaries in my neighbor's cage are reveling 
in the warm sushine. We are at Wahsatch, 
116 miles from Promontory. I hear the men 
sounding the car wheels, which is done every 
fifty miles, the engine is also changed every fifty 
miles. A number of boys have boarded the 
train, selling bread, cakes, coffee, etc.; bread 
twenty-five cents per loaf, coffee ten cients per 
cup. We are going through romantic and 
picturesque scenery. Bear River, clear and 
murmuring, over a pebbly bed is a lovely lit- 
tle stream. At noon we enter Echo Canon, 
the beautiful. A romantic natural defile, some 
100 feet wide by 17 miles long, the mountains 
on either side, tall and majestic, are of red sand- 
stone abounding in rocky ridges and covered with 
tamarac and sage brush, and bearing unmistak- 
able evidence of having been worn by the action 
of waters, years, perhaps centuries ago. It is 
picturesque beyond description — the long, level 
dell through which a clear stream rijiples and 
wanders, and the frequent occurrence of warm 
springs, around and near which the green grass 
grows in all the luxuriance of early June. Here 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 141 

on tlie very summits of these loftiest peaks we 
see the remains of ancient breastworks built 
years ago by the Mormons under Brigham 
Young, in order to shoot down on the Govern- 
ment troops which were sent out by Uncle Sam 
in 1857 to suppress Mormonism. 

These enduring breastworks, situated as they 
are on the tops of these loftiest peaks, recall to 
the peaceful traveler a scrap of frontier history 
which is interesting in the extreme. For many 
a long year they will remain a monument to 
the failure of an attempt to crush out a "pecu- 
liar society," which for its abominable prac- 
tices and outrageous creeds and its ignorant 
and fanatical followers, has no similarity in the 
world's history. They seem to recall to mind 
the millions of Avasted army munitions and 
treasury funds, and the utter failure of that 
memorable attempt. 

Weber River, running through the canon is 
clear and full of mountain trout. We have 
stopped at Echo City, a small hamlet. Here 
we bought some Utah apples — fruit of a su- 
perior quality. This is a lovely spot. We 
have passed several Mormon villages, and I 
notice two features which seem to be char- 
acteristic of this "peculiar" society, to- wit: 
the utter and hopeless poverty of the people, 
and the number of children. Judging from the 
number of little, tow-headed saints that swarm 



142 THE MARCH OF EMriRE. 

about the low log lints, we come to the conclu- 
sion that this must be a "manufacturing" vil- 
lage. At sunset we near the renowned natural 
wonder, called Devil's Gate. 

History and tradition have made us familiar 
with this remarkable and awe-inspiring place. 
Huge mountains frown narrowingly on either 
side, at the base of which a dee]) and rugged 
hole seems to have been scraped by demon 
claws. The mountains of solid rock descend 
almost perpendicularly, and at the very bottom 
of the gorge the Weber Kiver, deep and dark 
tumbles among the rugged rocks. The rail- 
road track spans the wide and gloomy gorge. 

Slowly we pass above and look from the 
dizzy height — only a narrow railroad bridge on 
which to cross this " Witch's Cauldron." 

Not the least interesting feature of this awe- 
inspiring and wonderful place is the old emi- 
grant road. Far below it winds its course 
around the margin of the river, a worn and yel~ 
low track. At one point, where the mountains 
descend adruptly nearly to the river brink, the 
solid rock has been picked and hewn away as if 
by painful labor, until there is, by careful 
driving, just room for a wagon to pass; above 
hang the jutting frowning rocks, and below rolls 
the deep dark river. How many wearied teams 
have passed under that shelving cliff! How 
many toil-worn travelers have shuddered in 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 143 

fear and terror as tliey passed beneath tlie 
shadow of this threatening mass of rock! How 
many human skeletons lie whitening in the 
deeps of this dark river! The river tells ns not 
in its unconscious murmurings, the wind brings 
no wispers in its wild ravings, and the stony 
mountains bear no record on their frowning 
fronts; but we recall to memory stray stories of 
the sufferings of the early emigrants — of lost 
stock, wrecked wagons, and dead men's bones — 
that haunt this awful "Devil's Gap." We pass 
on, and a sigh of relief escapes us as the last 
car rolls past the gorge, and we emerge from 
Echo Canon into an open plain, bounded by 
stupendous mountains, whose view is shortly 
cut off by the gloom of gathering night. But I 
cannot leave the canon without allowing my pen 
to linger over the record of a most rare and 
beautiful sight. It was about three o'clock, 
the day fair and sunny, at a point where the 
mountains reared their stupendous heights on 
either side, and covered the caiion with shadow. 
In the deep shadow I saw above me glimmering 
in the clear transparent air a single large and 
lovely star! Star of the daylight in the Bocky 
Mountains! Was there another one that saw 
it ? I shall accept it as a harbinger of future 
good. 

Since leaving the Black Hills the weather 
has been warm and pleasant. During the night 



144 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

we pass a very interesting portion of our jour- 
ney — Ogden, quite a nice city bordering on 
Salt Lake, also Corinne and Promontory. At 
the last named place we change cars and speed 
on. The shadows of night are around us, and 
on we go; while close upon our left the dim far 
stretching water of the Great Salt Lake repose 
and glimmer in the starlight. Many regrets 
are expressed that we could not have viewed 
the great interior basin by day. 

November 21st. — Daylight finds us speeding- 
over the Desert. The country presents a level 
tract of land, boun'ded on either side by grand 
majestic mountains. The soil is strongly im- 
pregnated with alkali. Sage brush and grease- 
wood with occasional patches of wild rye, are the 
only vegetation. The weather during the day 
is warm and pleasant, at night it is freezing 
cold. We pass "section houses," Chinese 
camps, and eating saloons, all board shanties. 
We see a few Indians, the only ones we have 
seen on the journey, begging at the camps. 

Passed Elko last night; a pretty little town; 
regretted it was at night. Here runners came in- 
to the cars, bringing apples, pears and grapes; 
the finest fruit I ever saw. We have had a ]3er- 
fect feast, and all the small emigrants are per- 
fectly delighted. We go on safely and easily 
making our eight or ten miles an hour. Halted 
at ten o'clock long enough to allow the gentle- 



THE MAECH OF EMPIEE. 145 

men to take a bath in a warm spring, the steam 
of which was plainly visible a few hundred 
yards off in Humboldt Yalley. A fellow pas- 
senger, an old gentleman seventy years of age, 
remarked when he saw the passengers running 
to the spring through the thick sage brush, " I 
don't see what they want to run away out there 
for, a scuffin out their boots." 

Heigho, what fun the conductor made last 
evening. He is a jovial, hearty soul, and kept 
us awake with his jokes. He is an exception 
to the generally recognized assertion that ^'Con- 
ductors are the meanest men in the world.'' 

November 2'2c? — Had a nice time this morning, 
got out with a small party and took breakfast 
at Winnemucca; fresh biscuits, buckwheat 
cakes, ham and eggs, tea and coffee, sweet po- 
tatoes, Irish ditto, butter, pies, fruit, etc., 
meals 50cts; '' meals at all hours and accommo- 
dations for one," besides the landlord gave us 
a new Frank Leslie's Illustrated. Nice landlord! 
good breakfast ! will patronize him every time 
we come this way. We are soon under way 
again, while the same seemingly endless mo- 
notony of sage brush and greasewood covers 
the broad valley, and the mountains repose si- 
lently in the distance. Along the track wheie 
the ground has been thrown up, the soil has an 
ashen-gray appearance, as though the country 



146 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

had at some day in the far past been deluged in 
burning lava, and is at present the silent witness 
of a volcanic eruption. Strange country, deso- 
late and uninviting ! I am anxious to see what 
will come after this long, monotonous valley of 
the Humboldt. 

How many fine views we pass in the night. 
Last night we passed that romantic spot, The 
Maiden's Grave. An emigrant girl was buried 
there long years ago, her grave left with only a 
rough board to mark the spot, but when the 
hardy men of California came to lay ''the shin- 
ing track of steely rails," they enclosed the sa- 
cred spot with a neat stone fence and placed a 
stone cross at the head, the symbol of Chris- 
tianity — the act was touching and praiseworthy. 
The spot is pointed out and the history recited, 
but how many, alas! how many, sleep that 
dreamless sleep, their graves unknown and their 
very names almost forgotten? How many sim- 
ilar histories of broken hearts and desolate, 
sorrowing homes and wrecked hopes are 
brought forcibly to our faithful memories by 
the touching sight of the maiden's grave? 

We are now within one day's travel of Sac- 
ramento. How near it seems, and yet how far! 
It is a most lovely day, the sun shines with daz- 
zling lustre, the heavens are a dreamy blue, the 
brown valley stretches far and level, with near 
pictures of brown mountains and distant views 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIEE. 147 

of tall , blue peaks that lift their brows far up 
in the clear air and seem to kiss the skies. 

Afternoon — We are at Humboldt City, and 
behind in the mountains we can see the mines 
— faint indications of the feeble powers of man 
in striving to wrench from the bowels of the 
adamantine rocks, earth's precious gems. We 
now j)ass a spot where some Chinamen are delv- 
ing in the ground and bringing out sulphur. 
It looks like the pure article. We wonder if 
his Satanic Majesty wears a pigtail, and we feel 
easier when we glide past the spot, prolific with 
brimstone and imps with pigtails and almond 
eyes. 

November 2^d — When we awoke this morning 
the grand, beautiful scenery of California 
greeted our vision. Breakfast at Truckee, a 
pleasant looking town of 2,000 inhabitants. 
The view is essentially Californian. It looks 
like home and smells like home. Hail Oro! How 
familiar look the tall sloping mountains, cov- 
ered with beautiful evergreens, and valleys 
through which murmur sparkling streams. We 
realize we are nearing home, that our journey 
is nearly at an end, and with what haj)py hearts 
we look out as the train speeds onward. We are 
now nearing the summit of the track reaching 
an altitude of 7,042 feet, descending at the rate 
of 90 feet to the mile; we go down 500 feet in 
six miles. The scenery is grand beyond de- 



148 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

scription; we feel like we are on tlie ''great 
backbone of eartli." Here on tlie lofty sum- 
mits of the Sierra Nevada, men were tied — it was 
necessary to secure them by tying them with 
ropes until they could pick a foothold in the 
solid, sloping rocks — and inch by inch the gran- 
ite was picked away till a roadway was made, 
and after an enormous outlay of money and 
toil and engineering and brain work, the grand 
Continental Railroad was a success! I look 
down from this awful height and see the tops 
of tall pine trees, which appear dwarfed and 
insignificant, and a stream goes on its winding 
way, which looks like a silver thread. It is by far 
the grandest, most fearfully sublime portion of 
the road, but much of the view is shutoff by snow 
sheds which are very substantially built to 
ward off the avalanche from the overhanging 
mountain. We pass through numerous tun- 
nels. Snow sheds and tunnels are so closely 
connected, that we scarcely realize when we 
emerge from a tumnel into a snow shed. A mo- 
mentary glimpse of green mountain peaks, 
frowning rocks and dark canons, and we glide 
into darkness and gloom. Around rocky points 
thousands of feet above green valleys and mur- 
muring rivers the train speeds on, and now the 
summit is reached and passed, and we are on 
the down' grade, another wild and fearful ride. 
Words fail to express our sensations. It is 



THE MARCH OF EMPIEE. 149 

the sublimity of grandeur, wild and grand be- 
yond description, far as tbe eye can see, the 
dark blue mountains are rolled range uj)on 
range, and crest upon crest. 

We arrived at Colfax about five o'clock, 50 
miles from Sacramento; we will be at our jour- 
ney's end to-night. The mountains begin to 
present a spring-like appearance. The tender 
grass reminds us of May showers and sunshine. 
Cottages are scattered about, and hamlets re- 
posing in dreamy green valleys; we see green 
peas and cabbage plants in the gardens. We 
are now in Placer County — the scenery is lovely. 
What a transition from that of two days ago. 
The monotonous wastes of the Humboldt have 
given place to spring-time verdure, rippling- 
streams, gardens, vineyards, etc. On speeds 
the train to Sacramento , where we arrived safe- 
ly last night at 12 o'clock, November 24th, 
1869. We were eight days and six hours on 
the journey, and with heartfelt thanks for our 
safety, we rest after our long and fatiguing 
trip. 

We look around us and feel the soft, balmy 
atmosphere, the warm rays of the genial sun- 
shine, and though it is rainy winter, flowers 
are still growing and blooming in the garden- 
beds, the verandahs of residences are yet green 
and lovely with vine and bloom — in striking 
contrast is the severe, cold, drizzling Novem- 
ber weather we left just eight days ago. 



CHAF*TE:r XVI. 

BERRYESSA VALLEY— THE DEVIL'S GATE — PLEASANT VALLEY — 
A NIGHT UNDER THE SKY — GRAND ISLAND — A PICTUR- 
ESQUE VALLEY — THE HAUNTED DELL. 

A few weeks spent in patient searcli for a lo- 
cation for a home, and at last Berryessa Valley, 
in Napa County, was selected. Here we arrived 
on the 2d of January, 1870, glad to rest from 
wearisome journeyings, and happy to feel that 
we were once more settled, and at liome. 

Napa County has been appropriately and just- 
ly called one of the garden spots of California. 
It is rich and fertile, abounding in beautiful 
valleys divided by mountain ridges, which af- 
ford excellent pasture for stock. It has long 
been noted for its equable and j)leasant climate. 
The soil is well adapted to all agricultural pur- 
poses. In many favored localities tropical 
fruits flourish. Napa Yalley — the largest and 
oldest settled valley in the county, is in itself 
a gem of loveliness. What nature may have 
failed to do for this romantic and lovely vale, 
has been more than atoned for by the uealth, 
industry and enterjorise of man. 

Berryessa Valley, distant from Napa City 
some 26 miles, was until within the last fifteen 
years, the home of native Californians — the 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 151 

Berryessa Bros., from whom it takes its name. 
Previous to its settlement and purchase by 
Americans, it was the ''Eancho De Las Putas," 
the property of the wealthy and luxurious 
Spaniard. The lingering remnants of its once 
wealthy and powerful owners still reside, broken 
in fortune and thinned in numbers, on a small 
portion of their once vast possessions. At 
sight of them, handsome and commanding, and 
still gifted with the dark beauty of their race, 
one is led back in imagination to those prime- 
val days. The valley was then little else but a 
wilderness of verdure— over whose vast pasture 
land roamed herds of horses and cattle, where 
the native grasses waved so high as to hide in 
their waving verdure the bands of cattle that 
fed thereon. A few adobe dwellings, staunch 
built and comfortable, were the only marked 
evidences of a semi-civilization. Numerous In- 
dian villages along the banks of streams en- 
livened the solitude; deer, bear and other ani- 
mals abounded in the surrounding mountains. 
Here, dreamed away in listless and luxuriant 
ease, the lordly Don, and his numberless re- 
tainers, the dusky Diggers. The sun rose and 
set, year after year, on the same scene — the 
same verdure of spring and tawny glint of 
autumn. Troops of dusky Indians lounged on 
their rancherias, mashed their acorns in rude 
stone bowls, and broiled their steaming veni- 



152 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 



son or bear meat by tlie smoking fires near 
their wigwams, and with no thought of the fu- 
ture, and no warning dream of the encroach- 
ing footsteps of the pale faces, cared for no im- 
provement and desired no change. But a land 
so gifted and so glorious, could not slumber 
long, unawakened by the ' ^ march of empire." 
The echo of its footsteps resounded on her 
border, and every leaf and blade of grass, and 
breath of wind, stirred to the sound! Before 
its resistless strides the native Californian and 
his belongings vanished like the dew of yester- 
morn. And lo ! we see before us what a change 
the fruitful years have wrought ! There are long 
lines of fences — vast fields of grain and corn — 
homes of wealth, beauty and refinement — and 
herds of cattle and horses and flocks of sheep 
feed on the green hill pasture. For miles the 
valley is level as a floor, without hill or hollow, 
and save the numerous ' ' weeping oaks, ' ' pre- 
sents an open scene of beauty and prosperity. 
Through its entire length flows a crystal stream, 
and in its centre is the quaint and pretty vil- 
lage of Monticello. For a period of ten years 
this beautiful valley was our home. 

It was midsummer — the early morning cool 
and balmy — and in company with a small party 
of friends with capacious vehicle and camping 
outfit, we were intent on a protracted journey 
for the purpose of visiting friends in the neigh- 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 153 

boring county. Down the canon, which is the 
natural outlet of Berryessa Yalley, we made 
good time. The morning air was laden with 
the delicious perfume of wild grape blooms, 
wild roses, and the flashing waters of the crys- 
tal stream of Putah. On either side, the 
mountains, grand and imposing, reared their 
peak-like battlements. A ride of a few miles 
brought us to the Devil's Gate, a ponderous 
mass of boulders, between which the old road 
of Putah Canon formerly ran. A sulphur 
spring in the vicinity, from which we drank, 
and which, when coupled with the Satanic title 
of the gate, was strongly suggestive of a very hot 
climate and things not pleasant to contemplate. 
Here is the dividing line of Napa and Yolo 
counties. It is written in large, white letters 
on the black face of the rock, and at the right, 
a corner of Solano county juts out in a huge 
mass of mountainous rock. 

A few miles further on, we pass the vegeta- 
ble farms in the vicinity of Pleasant Valley. 
Here grow the earliest vegetables that are taken 
to the San Francisco markets. Acres and acres 
of tomatoes, beans, squashes, etc., are to be 
seen, with bands of Chinese gathering them. 

Turning a point, we sweep over undulating 

hills, and are in full view of a young city of 

the plain — Winters, a town of some two or 

three years' growth, but for two seasons the 

7^ 



154 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

terminus of the Yaca Yalley Eailroad. Pass- 
ing, tlience our course lies northward — on the 
broad plain of the Sacramento Yalley, devoid 
of tree or shrub, but one vast, endless grain- 
field. The eye rests on many substantial farm- 
houses with groves of orchards and green vine- 
yards — others are mere tenant houses, small, 
and dark and dreary looking, and all glinting 
and glowing in the hot rays of a July sun. But 
beyond and far, what do we behold? — a crys- 
tal lake of clear, transparent waters, in which 
the reflections of grain-stacks and houses were 
plainly visible. We urge our steeds onward. 
Let us bathe the hot eyes and cool the burning 
brow in the limpid waters of the beautiful 
lake! The vision fades, it is only the mirage 
of the plains. Years ago, tired and thirsty, 
how oft we saw the same thing on the Colorado 
deserts, where in the limitless expanse of land 
and sky it lured the thirsty traveler on — a very 
ignis fatuiis. Ere long, a more cheering feat- 
ure of country is seen — we enter a beautiful 
belt of forest land, and hail with pleasure the 
inviting shades and sweet winds that sweep 
through the woods. Such droves of rabbits 
and- hare scampering and galloping in every di- 
rection, and the air is vocal with the songs of 
birds. 

As night closed around us, we sought a farm 
house where we procured hay for our horses, 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 155 

and selecting a pleasant camj)ing spot, ordered 
a halt. How grateful was the odor of the de- 
licious coffee and broiling steak in the open 
air, but weary of the long day' s ride, we soon 
sought slumber — our only canopy the blue, 
dark vault above. The line of light in the 
western horizon is fading— far off we hear the 
lonesome "too whit, too whoo " of an owl. 
The sound of the horses munching their hay, 
and the sleepy note of some drowsy bird borne 
on the invigorating night wind greet the ear. 
There is a short prayer breathed for the loved 
ones at home, a thought of the dear old friends 
at the end of our journey, a dim gleam of the 
wonders of God's creation, with the words 
"The heavens declare the glory of God and 
the firmament showeth his handiwork " — then 
sense and sound are lost, and we drop into for- 
getfulness. The clarion notes of the morning 
bird at the gray dawn, roused us from a long, 
restful sleep. How strangely, brightly beauti- 
ful the stars shone down over the dark bosom 
of the slumbering earth ! How cool and sweet 
came the morning wind, bearing in its low 
whispers the variable noises of awakening na- 
ture ! Breakfast soon over, and. we resume our 
journey. The broad Sacramento valley was be- 
fore and around us. In the distance a timbered 
line of dark, green trees showed where the 
noble river ran. Beyond were the "Buttes," 



156 THE MAKOH OF EMPIRE. 

bold, rocky and awe-inspiring, and in the back- 
ground, dim and almost nndefinable, we saw 
the faint outline of the beloved Sierras! my 
first view of them for many years. Entranced 
by the view, and lost in pleasant recollections 
of bygone times, we scarcely heeded the time, 
till the pretty little village of College City was 
in sight, with its handsome church spire and 
neat private residences. The land in the vi- 
cinity was formerly a large sheep pasture, and 
owned by a gentleman — Mr. Pierce. Dying, 
he left his property for the purpose of building 
a church and college — which is known as Pierce 
Christian College, and for its age and location 
is one of the finest institutions of learning in 
the country. We passed the handsome little 
church, in the grounds of which repose the re- 
mains of tliis friend of humanity. There is a 
modest marble monument over the grave, but 
the work planned by his brain, and dictated by 
his heart, will live long after the marble has 
perished — its infiuence for good will be felt for 
generations. 

Northward and towards the bluifs we now 
direct our course — where we know warm hands 
and loving hearts are waiting to give us wel- 
come. 

Two days later, and with some friends we are 
journeying towards Grand Island, a grand 
sweep of open country, with the bold Buttes in 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 157 

front and the dark line of trees margining the 
river growing nearer. 

And tliroTigh the soft sun-liglited air, 
We see the mists that hover where 
The river's margined bosom lies. 

We go through grain fields, pass corn patch- 
es, and cosy little cottages nestled deep among 
gigantic sycamore and oak trees, ere we reach 
the slough on the other side of which dwell 
those old companions of our early years. The 
bridge is crossed — the gate is opened, and 
though nearly]eighteen years have passed since 
we stood face to face, the cordial^ grasp of the 
hand and the hearty welcome, assure us that 
time has not so completely wrecked our once 
youthful looks, but that the resemblance can 
be traced. We find here Mr. and Mrs. Steph- 
en Burtis, the brothers M. and G. Stinchfield 
and Wm. Wright — old Nevada miners twenty 
years ago, who were for many years our old- 
time friends and companions. Time has dealt 
kindly with them, and though there are a few 
gray hairs, and a few lines of care that were 
not there twenty years ago, the hearts are still 
young and true to old friendships. Truly, 
*' there is naught on earth more beautiful, or 
excellent, or fair, than the face of a friend," 
and a friendship that survives the wrecks and 
misfortunes and disasters of two decades, is 



158 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

'' better than diamonds." Here we spent a 
day under tlie geif^rous shade of the sycamore, 
recounting old scenes and memories, rambling 
in the beautiful woods where we cut our names 
on the bark of a grand, old tree, unmindful 
meanwhile, that our ages were counting up 
among the 40' s, the 50' s, and even the 60' s. 
But time sped away, and with many a kind 
good by and promise to meet again, the morn- 
ing sun found us homeward bound. 

THE MEETING. 

A golden day, siiubright and fair — 

A broad expanse of land and sky — 
And thro' the soft, sun-lighted air. 
We saw the mists that hover where 

The river's margined bosom lies. 

We drifted down through fields of light — 

Our gallant steeds still bore us on, 
From the far bluffs, now dim and white, 
Toward the river darkly bright— 

Toward the Island's belted zone, 

I'd tarried long in distant lands, 

And years had swiftl}^ c me and gone, 
Since last I clasped the friendly hand- 
Since last I met the olden band, 

Where breathes the pine's low monotone. 

But strong desire now nerved me on. 
To greet the dear old friends of yore — 

While fainter grows the hills beyond, 

And nearer the enchanting bound — 
The Island fringed with sycamore. 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 159 

We reacli the bridge — unbar the gate — 

We gaze into each other's eyes, 
And hands that sundered long by Fate, 
Now clasp, tho' life is growing late, 

And smiles come up in glad surprise. 

A long, sweet day in summer's prime, 
We spent amid the grand, old trees, 
And backward, to the olden time 
We wandered — while the low, sweet chime 
Of long ago, came on the breeze. 

Just as we did so long ago, 

We wandered through the deep, dark woods, 
We watched the shadows come and go — 
We heard the wind sing soft and low-, 

The charms of Nature's solitudes. 

But night threw her unwelcome spell. 

Along the Island's girdled shore 
Something upon our spirits fell — 
We knew that soon the word^VtreiyeZZ 

From heart to heart would echo o'er. 

Crossing the western bonndary of Berryessa 
Yalley and travei sing the graded road, a dis- 
tance of ten or twelve miles, we enter another 
of Napa County's most beautiful valleys, Pope 
Yalley, and for diversified and picturesque 
scenery it is perhaps the most interesting and 
romantic. Fields of level land and belts of 
rich woodlands are broken by hills and eleva- 
tions crowned with verdure. Beautiful wind- 
ing roads cross and intersect each other in be- 
wildering mazes, and clear, sparkling streams 
from the cool depths of the mountain fastnesses 



160 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

wind through the vale. In riding through 
the valley, one is continually being surprised 
by the charming glimpses of home-life and 
fascinating rural pictures disclosed to view. 
Eural villas and residences of wealth and beauty 
nestle among the mountain and forest streams, 
and grain fields, and orchards, while the green 
hills covered with flocks and herds, contribute 
to make a scene most charming and perfect. 

Fair vale of the mountain ! 

With its streamlets and fountains, 
And fields that grow green 'neath the touch of the sun, 

Where the cool oaken shadows 

Fall aslant on the meadows, 
And the winds weave a rhythm with the bees' drowsy hum. 

This quiet and lovely vale is surrounded by 
points of more than passing interest. In its 
immediate boundaries are located some of the 
most popular health retreats and summer resorts 
on the Coast. The quicksilver mines are also 
located near. But the most interesting, and 
certainly the most fascinating attraction in the 
vicinity, is the mountainous chain that sepa- 
rates the valleys of Pope and Napa. 

It differs from the ordinary Coast Range 
hills in soil, climate, productions, water, etc., 
and is simj)ly one of those wonders of a won- 
der-abounding State. Here tower the finest 
specimens of forest trees, the lofty redwood, 
the stately pine, the fir, the beautiful madrona. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 161 

and numerous otlier species of forest growth. 
The soil is deep and fertile and adapted to the 
cultivation of vineyards and fruits of all kinds. 
The climate is unrivalled in uniformity and 
kindliness of temperature. Cold springs abound, 
and numerous mountain streams, clear and 
sparkling, flow through canons and plateau, 
often forming picturesque aud romantic water- 
falls and cascades. One of the most beautiful 
is J^olian Falls, situated in the depths of a dark 
forest — and some 60 feet in height. In early 
spring when the stream is swollen, the large 
body of water taking a sheer leap over the per- 
pendicular precipice, tumbles in foam and 
spray into the miniature lake, filling the chasm 
with a deafening roar, and speeding onward 
takes its noisy way down through the canon. 
Around and above, the mountains tower their 
green, moss-covered sides and forest-crowned 
summits. 

Down in the heart of an evergreen forest, 

Where the dark shadows hang heavy and deep, 
And the winds in their wantonness sport thro' the tree tops, 

While murmnrs the streamlet in musical sweep — 
There is the realm of the naiads and fairies, 

'Mid the tall grasses, the ferns and the blooms — 
Their laughter and song float in mystical echoes, 

And mingle their music with rarest perfume. » 

Ah! sweet as the dream of a poet's delusion, 

And fair as the castles we build in the air, 
Is this dell in the forest in lovely seclusion, 

The home of the naiads and the tryst of the fair; 



162 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

Far up from my perch where the mountain pine quivers, 
I watch and I listen, entranced by the spell 

Of the echoes that ring on the miniature river, 

That's lost in the shadows that droop o'er the dell. 

I hear their sweet laughter with snatches of singing — 

Of "tra-la-la-la"— "Come Will " and "Come Sue," 
** Press forward " and " hasten!" their echoes are ringing, 

And fainter in answer " We're following you," 
" Ah, tarry awhile " — come the voices entreating, 

" We're lingering to rest in this beautiful dell — 
Where the ferns and the mosses and wild rose in greeting 

Have flung 'round the spot their bewildering spell." 

And mid the dense leaflets by winds tossed asunder, 

I catch a rare vision of maiden or — sprite? 
They repose on soft mosses of velvety wonder, 

Or chase the swift humming bird brilliant with light; 
Still upward, and clearly their voices are floating, 

As if heedless of aught save the 'wild' ring hours — 
As happy and glad in their gay, careless sporting, 

As the elfins themselves that inhabit the flowers. 

I know the sweet spot that Nature hath vested 

With the deepest of shadows and brightest of sheen, 
For there has my sad heart and weary feet rested, 

As I listened, entranced by the charm of the scene— 
For sweet as the dream of a poet's delusion. 

And fair as the castles we build in the air. 
Is this dell in the forest in lovely seclusion. 

The haunt of the naiad, and the tryst of the fair. 

Here on the northern slope of this evergreen 
mountain in the salubrious climate of the Ther- 
mal Belt, surrounded by charming and romantic 
scenery — and with little to disturb the tranquil- 
lity but the voices of nature, is the home of the 



THE MAECH OF EMPIBE. 163 

writer, ''Arcadian Heights." The air is freight- 
ed with the rich aroma of pine, fir, redwood 
and other species of resinons wood; and the 
water, clear and soft, is unsurpassed. Until 
within a few short years ago, the mountain was 
a dense forest, the home and the abode of deer, 
bear and other animals — but it is now rapidly 
being redeemed from its primeval state, and 
converted into pleasant and comfortable homes. 
We who now plant orchards, vineyards, olive 
groves, etc., are but the second wave that 
follows in the van of civilization — we toil 
and we delve, and unearth the hidden germs 
of the soil. But shall there not come after 
us — following in the road our toil has 
hewn, those who, wiser, shall hold in their 
possession the mystic key that will unlock hid- 
den treasures and lay bare avenues of wealth 
of whose splendor and magnificence we, in our 
little day, have never dreamed ? Who can tell ? 

O, give me a home in the wildwood, 

Where the free bird singeth ever, 
Where the moss-grown bank of the forest glade 

Hangs over the rushing river, 
And the grand old trees of the western land 

Shall stand by my cot forever. 

And there by the forest's darkling rim. 

Lit up by the sun's soft splendor, 
I love to live — and I live to love, 

With a heart as light and tender 
As the birds themselves, whose winsome songs 

Sweet homage unto me render. 



164 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

I dream wliere the wild flowers softly blow, 
And tlie tall pines darkly quiver — 

And I rove wliere the rustling western wind, 
Thro' the redwood wildly shivers, 

And I love the sound, for Nature's voice 
So singeth her songs forever. 

And nearer upward my soul is drawn, 

To the home of the one Eternal, 
Whose many mansions no eye hath seen 

In the land of the Supernal, 
Over whose fair flowers no blight is cast, 

Whose fields are forever vernal. 

Oh! what were the world's proud boast of wealth, 

Or its fever- dreams of glory — 
To peace and rest in the wildwood's breast, 

With the dark trees bending o'er me. 
While lips I love and hearts that are true, 

Breathe ever the old, sweet story. 



CHAr^TKR :kvii, 



RETROSPECTION — CONCLUSION. 



During the last tliirty years, since 1854, the 
time at which onr story opens, have occurred 
some of the most remarkable events in the 
world's history — scientific discoveries, wonder- 
ful inventions, and the rapid progress and de- 
veloj)ment. of civilization in its onward march. 
Scarcely sixteen years have passed since the 
completion of that stupendous work — the Cen- 
tral and Union Pacific Kailroad across the con- 
tinent. It was the initial stej) in opening up 
to civilization the immense West; but until its 
commencement and completion the success of 
the undertaking, by the mass of people was 
considered impracticable. The Atlantic Cable 
also takes a front rank among the remarkable 
achievements embraced in that period. It too 
had its hosts of doubters and scoffers, both in 
the old world and the new, and the full glory 
of its success was scarcely dreamed of, even by 
the gifted brain that conceived it. The idea 
appeared to the world unreasonable and impos- 
sible that a submarine cable could be made so 
strong as to reach from continent to continent, 
so durable and impervious as to resist the ac- 



166 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

tion of salt water and the natural enemies of the 
deep — and could for any considerable time be 
kept in working order. Previous to that time 
it had required weeks and even months for 
news to reach us from the old world. Had we 
been told then that the news from England, 
speeches delivered in Parliament, the state of 
Her Majesty's health, etc., could reach us in 
the short space of eight or ten hours, the state- 
ment would have seemed highly absurd. 

The little instrument, the telephone, though 
of recent invention, and so universally used and 
well known, is deserving of mention as being 
one of the remarkable scientific inventions of 
the past few years. The theory appeared to 
many as that of a cracked-brained visionary. 
The idea of holding audible converse with per- 
sons hundreds of miles away by means of a 
simple instrument inserted in a hole in the 
wall of a building and connected with others 
by a simple wire. It was all too simple and 
absurd, and simple people could not understand, 
and the simple world looked on and smiled, until 
a plain unpretending man demonstrated it and 
made it a grand success. Now every city and 
town of any importance has its regular tele- 
phone companies. 

The electric light, too, that beautiful, bril- 
liant, clear illumination, is ^mong the most re- 
cent discoveries. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 167 

We who live in the light and enjoy the ad- 
vantages and conveniences of these and many 
other grand developments of the last three de- 
cades, little comprehend the state of things 
— the Egyptian darkness, so to speak, in which 
our grandfathers dumbly groped, and the dusk 
shadows of which we of middle age distinctly 
remember. One which we realize as one of the 
most important things that has had a bearing on 
the progress and enlightenment of the present 
time, is the steam printing press. Through its 
means general intelligence and knowledge have 
been widely and generously distributed. It 
does not require a remarkable memory nor a 
very old person, to look back to the time when 
books were rare and beyond the reach of the 
masses. Newspapers and periodicals were like 
angels' visits, ''few and far between." Print- 
ing presses were only in large cities and towns, 
and only hand presses were in use. How is it 
now ? The steam printing press has become a 
mighty power in the land, disseminating knowl- 
edge and intelligence from all parts of the 
world in countless books, periodicals, newspa- 
pers, etc. By the general and cheap distribu- 
tion of intelligence, it has been the means of 
opening the door to thought, to invention, and 
to the giant strides which progress and im- 
provement have made, not only in the western 
countries, but in the world. 



168 THE MARCH OF EMPIEE. 

The American people are known as a reading 
nation, and consequently a tliinking nation. To 
tliem belong many of the scientific discoveries 
and inventions of note which have been opened 
to fhe world in the last fifty years. But rapid 
as has been the advance of progress and im- 
provement in this direction, it has only been 
equalled by the development and civilization 
of the West. 

THE GREAT WEST. 

What was the great west, that immense coun- 
try lying beyond and west of the Father-of- 
waters fifty — nay thirty years ago ? An intermi- 
nable and almost untrodden wilderness. Many 
of us remember, and smile as we recall the 
picture that in our earlier geographies, across a 
large portion of that interior country was writ- 
ten" in bold capital letters— UNEXPLORED. 
Previous to the year 1849 , only a few daring spir- 
its, hunters, trappers and adventurers had pos- 
sessed the hardihood to push through the almost 
insurmountable barriers, and reach the Pacific 
Coast. Before the dawn of the age of gold in 
California, what was known of the countries of 
Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Oregon ? They 
were with little exception an unknown wilder- 
ness, uncivilized and from their very nature un- 
inhabitable, by white settlers. Their broad 
plains, fertile valleys, and rich mountain glens 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 169 

were swarming with hordes of cruel and blood- 
thirsty savages, who made war on each other and 
killed and tortured without mercy the few in- 
trepid traders and hunters who had the misfor- 
tune to fall in their way. The same is true of 
the countries south — Colorado, New Mexico, 
Arizona, etc. With little exception, save here 
and there, where the vanguard of civilization 
had daringly planted her outposts, it was an 
unexplored and trackless waste, a supposed un- 
inhabitable desert. 

It has been said that there is now no desert, 
and we sometimes hear the question : " "Where 
is the great American Desert?" It is true that 
geography has buried it — American progress 
and enterprise have ignored it, and the railroad 
era has eclipsed it, but we who have traversed 
that long and wondrous track remember well 
the long stretches of tawny sands — the misty 
desert sands of the Humboldt. 

However, here, amid that which was once 
deemed a vast wilderness of desert, fertile spots 
are found, and wherever found, there has indus- 
try and enterprise flung out her royal signal — 
farms are cultivated and homes and hamlets 
lend an air of beauty to the scene — so that, lit- 
erally, "The desert is made to blossom as the 
rose." All along the shining track of the rail- 
roads, civilization has planted her invincible 
banner. Cities, towns and villages — not the 
8 



170 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

mirage of the desert, but flourishing and 
prosperous communities, peopled by the very 
nerve and sinew of the land, rise upon the 
misty air of the aforetime interminable des- 
ert and unexplored centre land of the con- 
tinent, the region which was for ages, for 
aught history or tradition tells us, the do- 
main of the savage, the primeval home and 
haunt of swarms of buffalo, roving bands of 
wild horses, and countless bear, deer, antelope, 
elk, and many other species of wild animals pe- 
culiar to the climate. But with the first shriek 
of the mysterious monster, the iron horse, and 
as the wave of civilization sweeps onward, we 
see them vanishing like the dusky phantoms of 
a dream. With sullen and reluctant step the 
red brethren fall back before the advance of the 
white man. Their dusky figures are dimly seen 
through the clouds of dust, arising from the 
herds of buffalo, wild horses and the myriad 
animals who like themselves are seeking escape 
and fleeing to the uttermost parts of the conti- 
nent. On their familiar but now deserted hunt- 
ing grounds, and along the margins of their be- 
loved rivers, the white man has made homes, 
and built splendid cities and turned the soil of 
the green plain, which, yielding its weight of 
golden treasures now bend in the passing breeze. 
There, too, are schools, colleges and churches, 
for wherever *'the course of empire takes 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 171 

its way," there the Christian religion, like the 
quenchless light of the eternal stars, sheds its 
harmonizing and Christ-like influence. 

Judging by the past rate of their decrease — 
the Indian, like the Aztecs of Mexico, will soon 
be numbered among the extinct races. He has 
fulfilled his destiny, and as he stands on his last 
refuge with his handful of followers, gazing 
over his once grand and undisputed possessions, 
we are reminded of the eloquent speech of 
Iron Bull, chief of the Crows, who with a num- 
ber of his tribe witnessed the driving of the 
last spike of the Northern Pacific Eailroad. To 
him was given the honor of presenting the spike 
to be used on the occasion. His speech, on 
being interpreted, was as follows : 

' ' This is the last of it — this is the last thing 
for me to do. I am glad to see you here, and I 
hope my people of the Crow nation are glad to 
see you, too. There is a meaning in my part 
of the ceremony, and I understand it. We 
have reached the end of our regime and a new 
one has come. The end of our lives, too, is 
near at hand. The days of my people are also 
numbered — already they are droj^ping off like 
the last rays of sunlight which hang on the west- 
ern sky. Of our once powerful nation, there 
are now but a few left, only just a little hand- 
ful, and we, too, will soon be gone. After the 
savage, though, has given way to civilization. 



172 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

the whites will come, they will enjoy the same 
bright skies, the same glad sunshine, the beau- 
teous mountains, lakes and rills where once we 
delighted so to roam. They will probably live 
in it, populate it with the flowers of their race, 
but will they forever remain in undisputed pos- 
session of this grand domain? Who knows but 
what some race, at j^i'esent unknown to them, 
will make its appearance and overpower and take 
away the land from them, too. Then, as the last 
chief of the pale face nation stands before the 
conqueror, will he bid him welcome to his all, 
to his home, to his life, to his very soul, with 
more earnestness and as much sincerity as his 
red brother welcomes him now. I am glad to 
see you here, I am perfectly willing to yield to 
the advance of the higher and better civiliza- 
tion; the iron horse will now have a free field to 
itself, the Indian and Indian pony cannot hope 
to further roam as in the past, where such a 
civilizer penetrates. To you. President Yillard, 
to you and your associates of the Northern Pa- 
cific road. Iron Bull, Chief of the Crows, pre- 
sents this spike, with the hope that you will 
drive it well home, and thus have it bind the 
hearts of your red brethren to you and your en- 
terprise, as closely and as firmly as it binds 
your ties of steel, the one to the other." 



TliE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 



THE AGE OF GOLD. 



173 



The golden age dawned with its discovery 
in California in 1848, since that time the aurif- 
erous metal has been found in the larger por- 
tion of the Pacific and northern countries. It 
has served as a rapid civilizer and means of 
opening up and developing those hitherto seem- 
ingly inaccessible countries. It lured by its 
glittering power unnumbered hosts from their 
comfortable homes and the charms of society, 
to brave dangers' and hostilities in the rude 
borders of untried savage wilds. The growth 
and development of those countries has been 
something bordering on the magical. Had it 
not been for gold, the glittering phantom, the 
tardy march of civilization might have been 
ages in accomplishing what a comparatively few 
short years have done. Does it not then ap- 
pear that the age of gold has fulfilled its mis- 
sion ? Lo, the land is peopled— everywhere is 
written the ' ' march of empire ! ' ' 

DECREASE OF MINING. 

Many of the mines — particularly in the rich 
surface and placer regions, have been worked 
out and abandoned. Towns which sprang up 
in the short space of a few years, and which 
grew and developed into active and prominent 
business places, are now almost abandoned. 



174 THE MAKCH OF EMPIRE. 

How different their appearance now, contrasted 
with those early days! Those now abandoned 
milling camps were then scenes of activity, energy 
and prosperity, with their long lines of sluice 
boxes threading their way through the yellow 
"diggings" and bands of busy miners picking and 
shoveling in the coveted dust. From the rude 
cabins which dotted every hill, the blue smoke 
of the pine knots curling upward, told that tliey 
were occupied. Fine hotels and neat cottages 
and substantial' business houses occupied the 
" main street ' ' of the camp. The sight of tliese 
old deserted camps, wrecked dwellings, and 
cabins mouldering into ruin, and the general 
air of silence, and — death, brings up a mournful 
train of thought. To one whose life and soul, 
and whose very existence was a part of these 
busy scenes, the once familiar but now wrecked 
dwellings, bring a feeling akin to looking on 
the face of a dead friend. It is an uncom- 
forta'ble sensation, and though the sight of the 
grand old mountains, always unchanged, sub- 
lime and familiar, bring to the heart a feeling 
of pleasure, we would fain hasten our steps and 
leave a scene so full of wreck, desertion and 
decay. 

Quartz and hydraulic mining have taken the 
place of the old methods, and in many places 
this process of mining is carried on with suc- 
cess and profit. Many towns and camps have 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 175 

retained mnch of their early prosperity, and 
along the foothills or lower Sierra, below the 
snow line, other industries have claimed the at- 
tention of the people. This region is better 
adapted to the growth of some particular kinds 
of fruit than the valleys. Apples, peaches and 
many other varieties of fruit, possess a finer 
flavor, and it is also highly adapted to the culti- 
vation of the vine. Stock is raised to some ex- 
tent among the foothills, and permanent homes 
and prosperous communities abound. 

WHEAT GROWING. 

Though gold was the grand incentive that 
lured the early emigrants to the Pacific Coast, 
many of whom found it in almost exhaustless 
plenty, but all found something better. They- 
found a country whose genial atmosphere rivals 
the famed Arcadia, a land whose wealth of soil 
and blending of rare climatic influences is 
equalled by few and excelled by none — a country 
fitted in its natural conditions for the homes of 
the proudest race of earth. From the restless 
and exciting thirst for gold, and its feverish 
and phantom-like chase, they turned their atten- 
tion to the cultivation of the rich and fertile 
soil. The yield was enormous, and they soon 
acquired from this unlooked-for source, wealth 
and prosperity, and with it contentment, and 
California in the brief period of thirty years 



176 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

lias developed into one of the most important 
wheat-growing countries in the world. In 1880 
the wheat crop was worth over fifty million dol- 
lars. 

To the eye of the "^Easterner and those un- 
accustomed to the large grain fields, such as are 
met with in Sacramento, Colusa, San Joaquin 
and other counties, the sight is one worthy of 
attention. It is no uncommon thing here to 
see thousands of acres owned and cultivated by 
one man. The buildings of the farm comprise 
in themselves a considerable village, being the 
residence occupied by the family, the cottages 
for the workmen, huge barns, stables, sheds, 
blacksmith shop, windmill and tank house, and 
various outbuildings. To the eye of the trav- 
eler, as he journeys over the long, level plain, 
these ranches present the appearance of a stir- 
ing village, more paticularly if the season is 
harvest and the hour noon. Several "headers" 
and a thresher are usually employed, with their 
necessary complement of men, horses and mules. 
If within a mile or so of the house, they repair 
thither for their meals, and as they hie toward 
the house, men and animals present the appear- 
ance of a regiment of soldiery. Generally, 
however, a cook-house on wheels is provided, 
which accompanies them night and day; water 
is hauled in huge tanks and the company camj)S 
wherever night overtakes them, in the midst of 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 177 

thousands of acres of jellow grain waving in 
tlie wind. Wrapping tliemselves in their 
blankets they camp under the clear sky, with 
no fear of rain or chilling dews to disturb 
health or comfort. Immense stacks of wheat, 
cut, threshed and in the sack, at intervals over 
all the broad field, tell where ' ' the battle raged 
the fiercest." But the custom of farming im- 
mense tracts of land by a few individuals has its 
serious objections. It is a species of monopoly 
that is fast growing into disfavor, and in many 
places, disuse. While it has, in years past, 
been the means of enriching the few, it has 
also retarded the growth of communities in 
preventing thousands of families, in moderate 
circumstances, from obtaining homes in de- 
sirable locations, thereby rendering society 
little more than a name. Where a neighbor- 
hood comprises only a few families, and these 
are scattered over a vast extent of country, 
each farm encompassing several miles, little 
social intercourse is possible. Schools are few 
and far between, and churches still more rare. 
Except for the pleasure of money-getting and 
the power of wealth, this style of farming has 
few attractions, especially to the cultured and 
refined, and those who love the society of their 
fellow beings. 

Some years ago, a lady, accomplished and 
refined, who had been reared in the kindly and 
8^ 



178 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

social atmosphere of the Eastern states, mar- 
ried a wealthy rancher of one of our wheat rais- 
ing counties, who owned and cultivated several 
thousand acres of fine land. He took his young 
bride to his fine but lonely estate, whicli was 
to him his only world. How was it with her? 
Accustomed to the attractions of society, she 
soon wearied of the monotonous hum-drum life 
of a large ranch, of its confinement and loneli- 
ness, and became discontented, repining for 
home and the old life. In a few j^ears she lost 
all interest in her surroundings; her mind, im- 
paired, drifted into a settled melancholy; from 
that she became a raving maniac, and when I 
heard her mournful story from the lips of a 
friend, she was in the asylum for the insane at 
Stockton. 

SMALL FARMING. 

But it may now be said of the wheat rais- 
ing mania in California that it has reached its 
fever heat and subsided; other industries as 
lucrative have sprung up, many of which will 
come under the head of " small farming. " In 
many counties, both northern and southern, 
large tracts of land have been divided and laid 
out in small subdivisions and sold to persons 
desirous of engaging in fruit-raising, bee-keep- 
ing and other industries, thus insuring homes 
to families of moderate means and building up 
communities of thrift, beauty and prosperity. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 179 

In many of the soutliern counties tlie culture of 
the orange, lemon, olive, fig and the vine are 
taking the precedence in small farming. In 
the central and northerji counties, viniculture 
has taken a prominent position among the new 
industries, a larga percentage of the land in 
the State being peculiarly adapted to the 
growth of the vine. 

NAPA COUNTY. 

Among the counties which are taking a front 
rank in this rapidly increasing industry, we cite 
Napa County. We mention this county more 
particularly because it is oar county; for many 
years our home has nestled among its beautiful 
vales and mountains, and we know whereof we 
speak. More than a passing reference is due 
to this charming and attractive county which, ir- 
regular in shape, consists of beautiful valleys 
divided by mountainous ranges. The valley of 
Napa, which is the principal one, is some 
thirty-five miles in length, with a width varying 
from one mile at the northern end to five at the 
southern; through its entire length fiows the 
lovely river of Napa, into which empty numer- 
ous tributaries. The soil is peculiarly adapted 
to the growth of the vine and the various semi- 
tropical and temperate fruits. The climate is 
cool, and at the southern extremity, subject to 
fogs. The principal town, also the county seat, 



180 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

is Napa, noted for its attractive residences, 
beautiful gardens, and fine location. Two daily 
and two weekly papers are published here. 
The Napa State Asylum for the Insane, located 
in the suburbs of the town on a sightly emi- 
nence, is an object of special interest. The 
mass of buildings, stupendous and imposing in 
appearance, are among the finest in the State. 
Seen at a distance, this colossal structure, with 
its massive wings, domes and towers, presents 
a "ma'gnificent appearance. It was built at a 
cost of 11,500,000, and accommodates from 600 
to 800 patients. 

Another noteworthy institution is the new- 
ly finished "Veterans' Home," situated nine 
miles from the town of Napa. The Napa 
Valley Eailroad runs almost the whole length 
of the valley, and terminates at Calistoga, 
near the upper end, twenty-seven miles from 
Napa. [The San Francisco and Clear Lake 
Railroad, now being built, is designed to run 
from Napa through a portion of the valley, and 
crossing, takes its way into Lake County.] 

Along the line of the Valley Railroad, are nu- 
merous towns and pleasant villages, the most 
noted, the most attractive and most prosperous 
being, St. Helena, eighteen miles from Napa. 
In this vicinity, and in fact through the entire 
valley, the vine-growing industry has suj)- 
pl anted that of wheat growing. Large grain 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 181 

farms have been divided into small tracts of 
from fifteen to twenty acres and upward, and 
have been planted in vines, orchards, hop 
yards, etc. The town itself is a charming and 
busy centre of activity, situated as it is, in a 
rich vine growing district, with its numer- 
ous wine cellars, elegant residences, schools, 
churches, etc., and surrounded by lovely sub- 
urban villas and beautiful homes embowered 
by tree and vine. The fact that two semi- 
weekly papers are published here, both well 
established and doing a flourishing business, is 
proof of the prosperity of the place, the sur- 
rounding country, and the energetic character 
of its citizens. In 1880 the wine product alone, 
of Napa County, was 2,867,250 gallons, and 
there are fifty-one wine cellars in the county. 
Besides its social and home-like attractions, it 
presents to the tourist and the health-seeker, 
various popular and inviting resorts, and points 
of interest. There are in the vicinity of St. 
Helena, the Crystal Springs and the White Sul- 
phur Springs, also the Geysers, which have for 
years enjoyed enviable fame. The noted Pet- 
rified Forest is distant about fourteen miles, 
and on the west, for miles, runs the beautiful 
evergreen ''Howell Mountain." Circling its 
green sides from end to end of the entire chain, 
is the magical climatic wonder, the thermal or 
semi-tropical belt. Above the reach of the fog. 



182 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 

and Immid, cliilling atmosphere of tlie Talleys, 
and out of tlie reach of frost, it possesses more 
and greater attractions as a place of residence, 
than are to be found in almost any other locality. 
Like many another hidden treasure of this 
strange land of wonders, its advantages were, 
for many j^ears, overlooked; now, however, it 
is being rapidly settled up by those who wish 
to engage in fruit raising and the cultivation of 
the vine. "Small farming" is not only en- 
gaging the attention of that class of immigrants 
who seek California with a view of settling, and 
building up comfortable and pleasant homes, 
but also of the princely " ranchers," many of 
whom have become weary of the anxieties, 
debts and uncertainties attending the farming 
of an immense tract of land, which, with all its 
show and apparent wealth, is in many instances 
devoid of home and comfort. Many, too, have 
become broken in fortune in a single season of 
drouth, tbrough becoming involved in debt and 
paying enormous interest on borrowed money. 
To those who love the cultivation of the vine, 
with its luscious grapes, and the various fruits 
of the semi-tropical and temperate climate, and 
also of berries and small fruits of every variety, 
who love to plant and watch the unfolding of 
the varied gems of the floral kingdom — all which 
contribute to the beauty and necessities of a 
home — to these, small farming possesses many 



THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 183 

attractions. Thirty or forty acres in the val- 
ley or on the hill-sides, cleared and in bearing 
vines, fruits, etc., will insure to its possessor 
comfort, plenty, peace and health, and with 
grapes selling at the present rates, from $25 to 
$35 per ton, according to variety, will, in the 
end, bring a more satisfactory income than a 
large wheat farm of several hundred acres. 

California has, and justly, been called ' * The 
Italy of America." Her skies have been com- 
pared to those of Italy, Spain, Greece and Pales- 
tine . The asserti on i s well founded from the va- 
riety of her productions and the fascinating glory 
of her climate. In many favored sections the 
approach of winter is scarcely observable, save 
for the falling of the leaves and the green grass 
carpeting mountain and vale. Winter is an al- 
most uninterrupted spring. 

As an illustration, we cite with pleasure 
*-'our own little world," which is situated in 
the Thermal Belt on the green slope of the 
beautiful mountain previously mentioned. 
Although it is now the 6th of January, mid- 
winter in the Eastern States, we have scarcely 
yet felt a breath of king frost. The ^dnes 
at my porch, madeira, rose, climatis, honey- 
suckle, passion, etc., are as green as in midsum- 
mer. The flowers are still in bloom, roses, 
pinks, pansies, verbenas, myrtle, and other 
varieties. I have ten or twelve varieties of 



184 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

geraniums, all of wliicli are uninjured by frost. 
In the garden, raspberries of the Cuthbert va- 
riety are still blooming and bearing. On Christ- 
mas day I gathered a quantity — they were full- 
sized, red and juicy. On the grape vines a few 
tardy bunches of the second crop still linger as 
though loth to bid farewell to autumn. The 
ground is covered with green grass, and the 
lovely manzanita, with its beautiful waxen flow- 
ers, is in full bloom; add to this, the surrounding 
evergreen forest, is made more fresh and per- 
fect by the recent rains. In this we have pre- 
sented a picture — and a true one, of " The Italy 
of America." 

SAN FRANCISCO IN 1884. 

San Francisco in 1884, as in early days, when 
the wealth of the mines poured in seemingly 
endless profusion into the grand nucleus of 
trade and commerce of the Pacific Coast, so 
now the products of the soil and numberless in- 
dustries, a far more substantial source of wealth 
gravitates to that suburb centre. Steamers, 
barges and scows on the broad rivers bear out- 
ward to the bay, fruits "corn and wine," and 
the numberless productions of ther country, and 
the numerous lines of railroads tapping the rich 
arteries of the interior, all laden with products 
of the soil and the mines, glide onward and con- 



THE MAKCH OF EMPIEE. 185 

verge at the same p.oint. A visit to tlie Bay City 
toward tlie close of 1883, and we beheld her in all 
her magnificence and splendor — truly, "A city 
that is set on a hill cannot be hid ! " But what a 
wonderful transformation since the time when 
a stranger I first set foot on her glittering sands 
nearly thirty years ago! No longer are the 
hills covered with long strings of insignificant 
and rambling shanties, thrown together to sup- 
ply the immediate and pressing demand, for 
these have given place to magnificent and pala- 
tial mansions and imposing blocks of granite, 
and looking from the bay as we steam toward 
the shore, we see the golden shafts of sunlight 
glancing over towers, domes, temples and min- 
arets — in the words of a popular Avriter "A city 
that rivals the cities of the East in splendor 
and magnificence and excels them in wealth." 
The hills in many places have been cut down to 
fill up the hollows and the shallow margin of the 
bay, and over this made land a large part of the 
best of the city is built. Little does the stranger 
surmise as he treads the crowded thoroughfares 
of this part of the city, that the eager multi- 
tude daily passes up and down over places 
where the green waves of the bay once rolled 
in undisturbed serenity. 

Mills and factories, for the manufacture of 
the various productions of the State, have been 
in successful operation for many years; every 



186 THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 

brancli of industry is here represented, every 
bvisiness Las its headquarters here. Around 
the rim of the beautiful bay that almost en- 
circles the peninsula on which the city is sit- 
uated, is a forest of shipping. Through the 
magnificent Golden Gate steamers and vessels 
of every description are arriving from all parts 
of the world, and moored at the numerous 
wharves, and riding at anchor on the bay, are 
the various ''crafts of the sea," taking in 
freight. Wheat, flour, fruits and wine are among 
the principal articles of export. An immense 
trade is carried on with China, Japan, the islands 
of the Pacific, Great Britain, South America, the 
Eastern States, and many other countries. 

The lapse of years has not changed many of 
the peculiar features of this essentially cosmo- 
politan city. The population, which is at pres- 
ent estimated at about 330,000, is composed of 
representatives from all parts of the world, and 
it is without doubt partly owing to this fact that 
there are many features connected with it of 
more than ordinary interest, even for a city of 
its natural advantages and commercial import- 
ance. 

Strangers are invariably directed to Wood- 
ward's Gardens, which, with their under- 
ground aquarium department, beautiful plants 
and flowers and innumerable curiosities, are 
well worth a day's sojourn in the city, to visit. 



THE MARCH OF EMPIRE. 187 

The street cars are constantly filled with 
eager sight-seers going to this popular resort. 
To those who have not been accustomed to the 
*' cable cars," the wonderful wire-rope rail- 
roads, moving without the slightest visible 
propelling power, gliding with their loads of 
passengers straight up and down hills, over 
which many of the streets of San Francisco run, 
the sight is a novel one. 

In the environs of the city are many charm- 
ing resorts and splendid drives; the Cliff 
House, famous for its Seal Eock, where abound 
those curious specimens of the deep; Golden 
Gate Park and the delightful drive to it along 
the bay shore, with a view of the Golden Gate 
and the ocean beyond, the broad bay, and nu- 
merous islands, the ocean vessels, under full 
sail and steam, ploughing the dancing waves or 
riding at anchor on the bosom of the deep. 

Golden Gate, the grand entrance to the 
harbor and bay within, is a beautiful strait six 
miles long by one mile wide. It is said that 
when viewed from the east, at sunset, the effect 
is sublime. It then is really a gate of gold in 
a crimson setting, with the changing tints of 
sunset reflecting and radiating on the vast ex- 
panse of water beyond. 



188 THE MAECH OF EMPIRE. 



AND THE SEA. 



There's a land whose fair borders are washed by a sea, 

A sea whose broad bosom is — peace. 
'Tis a clime of our earth, but its glittering strand 
Slopes down from a mountain chain wondrously grand, 

Where the region of Empire doth cease; 
And Empire sits there, by the far reaching sea, 
With her feet in the beautiful sea. 

Her footprints we've seen on the desolate plain 

Where she trailed her white robes thro' the vast 

Burning sands and deep rivers — now cities abound, 

Which arose at the wave of her magical wand. 
But the limit of Empire is cast, 

And she sits on the land that is washed by the sea. 
The waves of the west-going sea. 

And the land that she reached at the last is the best; 

For its mountains bear treasures of gold. 
And the green sweeping plains and sweet vales seemed to woo 
The homes that now greet us; and wandering through 

Are the rivers, whose murmuring waters doth roll, 
And mingle and merge with the waves of the sea, 
The waves of the shimmering sea. 

The vales breathe of spices and odorous bloom: 

The orange, the tig and the vine; 
And fields of rich verdure spread inland and wide, 
Whose wealth is borne out on the far flowing tide, 

To the strand whose broad margin is lined 
With the vessels that freighted are bound for the sea, 

The ships that sail over the sea. 



THE MAECH OF EMPIKE. 189 

The Queen of the West, like a siren of old, 

Sits throned on her radiant hills, 
In sxDlendor and wealth. Her temples and towers 
Kise grand from the sea, in their pride and their power, 

And the land with her praises is filled — 
And outward she looks to the gate that is gold, 
Thro' which ages and ages the billows have rolled, 

They bear on their breast to the sea — 
In the barks that sail out to the Orient climes. 

The treasure and wealth of the Queen of the West, 

The bride of the beautiful sea. 



THE END. 



